tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39725977893181225972023-11-16T04:03:04.866-08:00Gap Year GirlMy husband, Joe, and I are in Europe for a Gap Year Abroad. We left the US in September 2011. We're sharing our experiences on this incredible journey and hope you'll follow our adventures.Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.comBlogger158125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-47428106796459990622015-02-26T12:58:00.002-08:002015-02-26T12:58:47.724-08:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Dear Readers and Friends of Gap Year Girl,<br />
<br />
When I last posted, Joe and I had just returned from our year-long sabbatical. Much has happened since then and I'm happy to announce that one important thing is that my book, <i>Gap Year Girl: A Baby Boomer Adventure Across 21 Countries </i>will be published this September by She Writes Press out of Berkeley, CA. http://www.amazon.com/Gap-Year-Girl-Adventure-Countries/dp/1631528203/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1422189805&sr=1-1<br />
<br />
I have a new author web site and have started to blog about the book publishing experience. I hope you'll continue to follow me at: http://mariannecbohr.com.<br />
<br />
Thanks so much for your support and as always, bon voyage!<br />
<br />
Marianne</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-23065721055590622482012-09-30T09:56:00.000-07:002012-10-03T09:55:39.195-07:00Le Départ<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1077</o:Words>
<o:Characters>5087</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>121</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>10</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>6154</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Did we have
trepidations about leaving our children, jettisoning everything and moving to
Europe for a year without a home, car or jobs? Without a doubt. Were we fearful
about living out of a couple of suitcases, being blissfully unaware </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">of some of the difficulties we would encounter</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> and making up our itinerary as we went along? Absolutely. It was
perhaps the most terrifying thing we’d ever done, but we knew it felt right and
that if we’d given in to fears, backed down and decided not to go, we would
have regretted it for the rest of our lives.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">There was no grand strategy for our year, no fleshed out, burnished in
gold blueprint. We had decided to let the year unfold organically on its own
without too much definition. We wanted enough flexibility to be able to take
advantage of possibilities and to change our plans according to how we were
feeling. There was a skeletal framework, a tentative list of countries, a few
ground rules and the fact that we knew where we would start and where we would end:
Paris. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">We kept in mind as the weeks ticked by Lawrence Durrell’s quote that I
included early on in this writing: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;"><i>Journeys, like artists, are
born and not made. A thousand
differing circumstances contribute to them, few
of them willed or determined by the will -- whatever we may think. They flower
spontaneously out of
the demands of our natures – and the best of them lead us not only outwards in space, but inwards
as well.
Travel can be one of the most rewarding forms of introspection...</i> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">And thus we left plenty of room for the spontaneity, flights of fancy
and reflection our spirits would require. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;">Life on the road was not always glamorous. Traveling
does indeed have its difficulties; there were days of skinned knees, both
literal and figurative, on the cobbled streets of Europe. But was our journey
the answer to our long-standing dream of living in Europe and absorbing it
deep in our souls? The answer is yes, it was all we had dreamed and more.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">“</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Drama is life with the boring bits left out." Such was
Alfred Hitchcock’s observation and the same might be said of the glorification
of long-term travel.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Viewed
from the sidelines, it appears to be kaleidoscopic, sophisticated and always in
Technicolor, every minute of every day.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">
</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">But
the reality is that much of an extended journey is just life, after all, filled
with daily habits and the ordinary tasks of living.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"> There</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> are ups and downs, excitement and ennui and yes
indeed, there are those tedious boring bits.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;">The unveiling of the aftermath of our Gap Year, of our reassimilation
into what would be the rest of our life, was about to begin. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The day of our departure from the escapades of the
Old World for the possibilities of the New had arrived. We had done what we
could to make our time in Europe last as long as possible – at least in terms
of appreciating every minute and creating vivid memories, but the inexorable
flow of time is impossible to stanch. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">It seemed like forever and yet only</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> yesterday that we had
landed in France 12 months earlier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">For the final time in what had become my travel day ritual, I slipped
on my uniform of comfort (my boyfriend jeans, black tee and hiking sandals) and
we whispered goodbye to our Paris studio and took to the road. Bags dragging
behind us, we walked past Parisians performing the early morning rituals of
brasserie sweeping and bistro set up, shop window polishing, <i>plat du jour</i> posting and unstacking and
hosing down the plastic-webbed chairs of sidewalk cafes. We </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">walked by our favorite little
neighborhood <i>boulangerie </i>and despite the
urge to pause, resisted the buttery, yeasty smell of fresh croissants and
baguettes wafting into the street. Breakfast at the airport was going to have
to do. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">As we </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">rolled up the final escalator to </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">the Motte</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">-</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Picquet</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> metro platform, serenaded
by a busker on an accordion down below, it hit me like an arrow from a tightly
strung bow: we were leaving Paris, saying goodbye to France and our adventure had
come to a close. It was a fitting morning elegy for the end of our Gap Year,
filled with lament </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">as I overflowed with emotion. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">We’d cross-examined ourselves daily over
the previous 12 months about whether taking a Gap Year was testament to our
madness, a tribute to our pluck or just a step in our lives that seemed so
right for the time? The answer is likely an amalgam of all three. But whatever
the answer, what we could attest to was feeling lucky. Lucky to have had our
dream come true. Lucky to have been able to take a year off from regular life. And
fortunate to have had calm waters at home such that we were able to take a
sabbatical without interruption.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> We
ran almost maniacally from the logic characteristic of some self-satisfied individuals
of privilege that because they’ve been blessed, they believe they deserve it. We
simply felt lucky, fortunate and happy that our madness and our pluck had
brought us there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">I recalled the newly married Filipino couple we’d
met in Turkey who innocently sought our advice. “Is two weeks,” they asked,
“enough time to see Europe?” “Oh my, we replied, “We’ll be here for a year and
we still won’t see it all. We’ll barely have scratched the surface.” </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">After 353 days, 21 countries, 11 capital cities and
countless trains, planes, busses, shuttles, rental cars, cable cars, gondolas,
ships and ferries, there was still so much more to see.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">As
our plane lifted off from Orly and soared upward, the individual sights of
Paris and its suburbs quickly blended into the mosaic of rural France below. It
was a gentle palette of perfectly outlined shapes of color – the soft greens,
tans and browns of the countryside. And as sometimes miraculously happens when
flying to the US on a clear day from Europe, the shoreline of coastal France
and then the outline of Spain and Portugal appeared far below as we headed out
over the Atlantic. We were finally heading home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Will there be another Gap Year of travel in our future? I wouldn’t
rule it out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures of our adventures:</span><span style="color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Paris, France48.856614 2.352221948.773036 2.1942934 48.940192 2.5101504tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-58615761555405054562012-09-29T09:04:00.002-07:002012-10-03T09:52:43.151-07:00On Returning Home<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1251</o:Words>
<o:Characters>7135</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>59</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>16</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>8370</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">The fantasy had been with me for almost as long as I could remember. I
lived and relived our European experience in my mind’s eye for over 30 years. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The
vision first took shape when I was a </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">young adult returning from studying abroad, clarified
somewhat and merited its very own file folder as it remained in my heart as I
became a young mother, career ladder climber and dual college tuition payer and
then blossomed into an actual, concrete plan accompanied by spreadsheets, maps
and piles of references as I matured into a middle-aged empty nester. My idée fixe of a Gap Year in Europe with Joe sustained me
through many a professional trial, boring weekend, humid Washington summer and fleeting
vacation. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">But now I find myself asking,
what will get me through those hurdles now that the vision has been realized?
What escapist imaginings will consume my idle hours? </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;">Will life be hard on us,
now members of the “those whose dreams have actually come true” club? I was overcome
with </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">difficult-to-articulate feelings
as we prepared to go home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">As a child I watched a Hayley mills movie, <i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058371/" target="_blank">The Moon Spinners</a></i>, in which she and her friends get into
mischievous escapades on Greek hillsides dotted with windmills and the seed for
seeing the world was sown. I read <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rebecca_(novel)" target="_blank">Rebecca</a></i>,
<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sun_Also_Rises" target="_blank">The Sun also Rises</a>,</i> <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Talented_Mr._Ripley" target="_blank">The Talented Mr. Ripley</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sheltering_Sky" target="_blank">The Sheltering Sky</a></i>
and <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Drifters_(novel)" target="_blank">The Drifters</a></i>. They filled me with
longing for adventure in other countries and the reverie of some day living
abroad. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">At every opportunity – when pinching pennies, the family budget and
work schedules allowed – Joe and I took off for Europe, visiting my beloved
France, but also venturing to England, Scotland, Italy, Germany, Belgium and
Greece. We visited my sister Peggy who lived in London with her husband for
several years. We took the kids backpacking through Italy and Greece, starting
in Rome and heading all the way south to Crete. We traveled with each other for
international business conferences and made special anniversary trips for our 15<sup>th</sup>,
20<sup>th</sup> and 25<sup>th</sup> celebrations. But as lovely and exciting as
these voyages were, they were short-lived and temporary. But we were determined
not to relegate living in Europe to the outer reefs of “someday isle” along
with all those other resolutions: someday I’ll lose weight, start exercising, change
jobs, visit friends more often, read <i>Anna
Karenina</i>, take dancing lessons. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">I vividly recall Joe holding my hand, leaning over to me as our jet
took off in 2001 for our 20<sup>th</sup> anniversary trip to France and saying,
“Just imagine that those are </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">one-way tickets</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> in our backpacks and we’re leaving to live for a full
year abroad – how exciting will that be?” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">So there we were in Paris, after our long-awaited year
abroad, poised for a ceremonial burning of clothes: </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;">Joe’s black sport coat
worn to the point of translucence, my limp, green hiking pants devoid of any
life they’d once had and white t-shirts stained, gray and ragged from too many
ineffective washings in the sink. Perhaps it was time to go home, time to allow
a bit more routine back into our lives, time to find a place to nest.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">We would</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;"> soon be back to the daily
grind, in the clutches of the Washington Beltway bourgeoisie, subject to </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">the incessant drumbeat
of our modern world.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">I
could see the stresses lurking just beyond the horizon back in the States, ready
to pounce the moment we arrived. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Anything
related to finding new employment and heading </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">back to the
frenzied reality of daily life </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">made me
anxious and prone to procrastination.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;">We were resolute, however, about doing our best
to resist the pressures and remain dispassionate about the day-to-day
exigencies of life in the nation’s capital. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Thirty-one years after initially setting up housekeeping together, I
thought about what a gift we’d been handed: to once again start our lives anew.
World-weary travelers, I knew we would delight in settling down, being rooted
in the comfortable and mundane and anxious to loose ourselves in new routines,
untested and pregnant with possibility.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">Yes, we would get to begin again with no
idea of where we would work or where we would live. We would have the ability
to reinvent ourselves and our lives and play a whole new hand of cards. Life doesn’t
get much luckier than that.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">I’m
going to miss being surrounded by languages other than our own every day, and
French most of all – at the <i>Monoprix </i>grocery
store, listening to the news on <i>la télé</i>,
on the metro and on the bus. I’ll have to suffer through withdrawal, like an
addict going cold turkey, as I distance myself from the pleasure that is
France, the pleasure that is Europe, the pleasure that is traveling. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Will we experience a bit of reverse culture shock on returning to the
US? Will the frenetic pace of American life surprise us?” Will we ask: “Why are
these people walking so fast?” “How is it that we understand everything that’s
being said and don’t have to frantically search for words to make ourselves
clear?” “Why do toilets flush with handles on the side and not buttons on the
top?” And last, but hardly least, “Why are these portions so huge?” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">After being foreigners for so long, we’re certain to feel somewhat
foreign ourselves despite being back in our own country. We’ll have to get used</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> to reading
signs in English and adjust to the daily visual parade of the morbidly obese,
chronically loud and badly tattooed. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">And
while I do love my country and our life in America, I do fear that </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">in an acclimating fit
of pique I may one day scream at my fellow citizens, ”Why can’t you be more
like Europeans?”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Is there a new person who has emerged from her exploits across Europe,
wiping off the dust of magical places discovered? Perhaps I won’t know the
answer until we’re back in the melee and I see how I deal with the everyday.
But I experienced some revelations while we were away and chief among them is
the reinforcement of the virtues of simplicity and kindness. There were times
while traveling when </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">we had an acute need for a kind gesture -- just a little one. And when it materialized in the form of a clerk’s smile
or a pedestrian who helped direct us, it made all the difference in the world. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">I want my days to be filled
with kind gestures – both those I offer and those I receive. At this time in my
life, I’m not interested in being with people I don’t care for, who aren’t kind
and I’m embarrassed to be at a table with in a restaurant because of how they
treat the staff. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The most important
thing in human life is to be kind and I find I now have no tolerance for anyone
who cannot be so. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">One
the eve of our departure, if someone had knocked on our apartment door and told
us we were required to stay for another few months, smiles would have
overwritten our leave-taking frowns. A few more months among the wonders of
Europe would have suited us just fine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">But
knowing we would be back on US turf and seeing our children, friends and family
soon was not a bad thing either. Going home is hard when you love where you've
been but being in the same country as our kids will make our hard landing a bit
softer.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> It was hard on Chris and
Caroline at times to have us so far away and while we’re used to living apart,
the wide Atlantic Ocean between us was a very real gulf that made the
separation more acute. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It’s
difficult to admit, but after 12 months of being on the road, my contentment
pendulum had swung to the side of longing for a comfortable home base and the
desire to settle down. Moving into a place we can call our own, where we can
unpack knowing that in a few days we will not have to repack yet again and
where we can become reacquainted with those favorite things we left behind (our
bed, my coffee mug, the C&O Canal and morning TV). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">But
I know myself well and the cozy complaisance of life in the familiar will only
last for so long. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">My craving for
novelty will once again wrestle with my very real desire for security. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">On some undetermined evening in the not-too-distant
future over a glass wine in the corner of an evocative bistro, my </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">always persistent wanderlust will poke through the
fabric of our daily lives, and I will declare my need for some adventure, some
movement, some discovery. And the determined planning for more travel will begin
yet again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures of our adventures</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">: </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Paris, France48.856614 2.352221948.773036 2.1942934 48.940192 2.5101504tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-89981498707124744622012-09-24T07:02:00.001-07:002012-09-26T18:29:59.554-07:00Paris: The Last Hot Hurrah<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1024</o:Words>
<o:Characters>5839</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>48</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>13</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>6850</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
studio we’d rented for our first month in Paris became home for our final eight
days. Perhaps because of its location on the always-shaded inner courtyard of
the 150-year old building, it was somewhat protected from most of the outdoor
heat and was a relatively cool sanctuary. We reluctantly went about unpacking
our bags for the final time on our Gap Year. When it came time to stuff
everything back in, our year in Europe would be over and we would be filling
our duffels for the flight back home. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">We listened to the familiar sounds in the apartment building: the
couple making breakfast next door, the cougher upstairs and the opening and
closing of the heavy front door. After our peripatetic year, we’d circled back
to Paris. When we’d arrived 12 months earlier, the weather had been cool and
rainy with fall in the air and in contrast, it was now the sticky, hot summer.
Indeed, we’d come full circle in returning to Paris and had run through the
seasons of Europe. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">Paris was a ghost town. It was our first
time in the city in the second half of the summer and although </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">I'd
heard how deserted the place is in August, actually witnessing it so empty was
a little eerie</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">. All was quiet along the banks of the Seine. I half-expected to see
tumbleweeds rolling down the <i>Boulevard
Saint Germain</i> past <i>Les Deux Magots</i>.
</span>Ordinarily, I find that there’s a
surface sparkle of color set against the never-ending French vanilla cream of Parisian
buildings, but even the local color seemed muted in August’s indolence.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">We arrived in Paris on a Thursday
afternoon and the calm was palpable. Are we sure it’s not a Sunday, we thought.
But then the next day dawned and even at the height of what should have been the
morning rush hour, Paris remained asleep and it was Sunday once again. There
were so few people on the streets and any we passed were not speaking French.
The locals had abandoned Paris for the mountains and the shore and </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">left
their fair city in the hands of the tourists. Life in </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Paris is slow in August and mirrored the
tempo the waning days of our year had taken. We were in sore need of some unscheduled
down time to mentally and emotionally prepare for returning to the States. And
thus our time in Paris was dictated by our internal rhythms without haste or
schedules. We awoke each day with no agenda and eschewed temporal exactitude
for serendipity -- a luxury we were keenly aware would too quickly disappear
once we set foot back in the real world. It was our last gasp of spontaneity
for a while.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
temperatures exacerbated Paris’ summer pace. Everything and everyone was in
slow motion because of the heat -- over 100 degrees with a healthy dose of
humidity in a city where air conditioning is hardly de rigueur.</span> The weather was such that even with no movement at
all while we sat quietly in the shade on a bench near the Eiffel Tower, we were
bathed in sweat. Perspiration puddled on our upper lips, dripped down our
temples and dropped onto our thighs. <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">We considered joining those</span> young and old who resorted to jumping into gushing
fountains for relief but in the end decided to head to an awninged cafe for cold
drinks.<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">It was soon pillbox countdown time. Every Monday morning I mark the
new week by replenishing my vitamin pillbox. I felt so profoundly the
inevitable passage of time as I dropped the tablets into their daily slots for
the final time in Europe. So few pills remained and so few days to go. Our
flight would leave Friday and here it was Monday. The final week’s countdown
had started.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">There was some final, gentle exploring of neighborhoods unknown we’d
decided to embark upon and found ourselves in northeast Paris along the banks
of the Canal Saint-Martin. There’s an energy along the canal, much like that
found in quartiers all over the world where young people flock together, play
their instruments outdoors and enjoy endless conversation. Quirky boutiques and
trendy cafes line both sides of the canal and iron footbridges cross now and
then from side to side. We stopped for an early dinner in an industrial space
turned funky bistro serving up Indian fare looking out on the <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">canal. I’m sure the
other patrons – young, hip and international -- wondered about the 56-year old
interlopers in their midst.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">With just two more days and a wake-up left to our Gap Year and desperate
for the relief of some serious air conditioning, we decided to indulge in a
capstone lunch at a fine restaurant. But finding such a venue was no easy task
since almost all were closed for the entire month of August: Lasserre,
Taillevant, Le Pré Catelan and others. I envisioned all the finest chefs of
Paris in starched toques sipping umbrella cocktails at tiki bars along the Côte
d’Azur. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">And then Joe suggested <a href="http://www.lejulesverne-paris.com/" target="_blank">Le Jules Verne</a> on the Eiffel Tower. All
associations with the doomed engagement of Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes aside,
our meal was <i>magnifique</i>. We had no
expectations other than a beautiful view but not only was the panorama
priceless, the food, the service and the wine at this Alain Ducasse restaurant made
for a wonderful memory. As I sipped my Sancerre in a long-stemmed wineglass, I
reflected on all those times over the months when we’d lacked goblets of fine
crystal or even a simple glass and settled for white wine in plastic cups. And
here we were dining on the second level of the Eiffel Tower. We had certainly mastered
the art of turning on a dime from budget traveler basics to the finest Europe
had to offer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">On our return home, we’ll surely be asked
to play parlour games about our favorite countries and cities and I will be
reluctant. </span>Picking favorites is inherently
reductive and divisive <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">by definition, whereas the reality is so much more complex. To select
one or two is to eliminate the others and this is a relegation that just doesn’t
seem fair. So many factors went into making almost all the places we visited
special.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">But in the end, we are human and we do indeed
have our preferences. The most frequently asked question will likely be: which
was our favorite city? And the answer to that one will be easy. It is </span>Paris hands down, no question, without a doubt. We
haven’t yet visited all the world’s grand cities, but I suspect that had we, the
City of Light would remain our most beloved metropolis both in Europe and on
the planet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">As we prepared to leave Paris, I thought about the thousands of
couples who had made the city their own since we’d left the previous fall. And
with the spirit and conviction that only true love can deliver, I knew deep in
my heart that no one else’s attachment to Paris was quite like ours and never
would be. Paris is paradise for me and for Joe and we were already making plans
to return again and again.<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Pictures of our adventures: <a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</a></span><u><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: hyperlink;"><o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Eiffel Tower, Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 75007 Paris, France48.858278 2.29425448.847831 2.2745130000000002 48.868725 2.313995tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-45778507432175632282012-09-20T09:16:00.000-07:002012-09-21T17:27:59.627-07:00The Final Approach to Paris <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1009</o:Words>
<o:Characters>5755</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>47</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>13</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>6751</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">We spent our final itinerant days before returning to Paris wandering
country roads through Burgundy and then into Lorraine and Picardy, through one
little French town after another. Every one has grown up around its very own <i>Hotel de Ville</i>. Each town hall is
proudly adorned in civic pride and window boxes trailing summer flowers. Bold
red, white and blue “RF” shields for “République Française” are prominently
displayed and on either side fly the French tricolor and the local flag.<b> <o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">As the center of much community activity, the<b> </b><i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%B4tel_de_Ville,_Paris" target="_blank">Hotel de Ville</a> </i>is generally
a vibrant bustling hub. Couples go to there to get married in a legally binding
civil ceremony before heading to the church. It hosts a variety of cultural
events, the infamous red tape and applications for myriad permits required for
daily French life generally start there and in some villages residents can even
drop by to pay their utility bills. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Also fixtures in each town center, no matter how small the village,
are two memorials inscribed with the names of all its men who died in the First
and Second World Wars. It’s always a shock to see so many names listed,
especially for World War I, in hamlets whose entire populations couldn’t be
more than a couple dozen. On previous trips to France, we’d visited the WWII beaches
in Normandy and the heartbreaking American Cemetery overlooking the English
Channel in <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;">Colleville-sur-Mer.
On this visit we would pay our respects to those who died in World War I. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">We passed through Époisses, famous for its eponymous cheese (one of
our favorites) on our way out of Burgundy, rolled over the gentle, fertile
hills of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chablis" target="_blank">Chablis</a> under a fleeting sunny sky and made our way towards the city
of Verdun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Our trip has been a time of
intense togetherness, as travel as a couple should be, and we’ve learned to
read even more accurately than ever, each other’s needs and moods. In the waning days of our year, both of us subdued
and pensive with no need to converse, we were content in the close-companioned
silence that feels comfortable only in the most familiar relationships. The
clear light of Chablis on its golden wheat fields and green vineyards soon gave
way to overcast skies, reflecting not only our introspection but the somber
scenes of war ahead of us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Joe and I are both eldest children (he of three and I of eleven) and
as I’ve so often found without knowing why, first-borns, like only children,
generally have fierce needs for quiet and being alone. In my case, eighteen
years in tight quarters with a family of 13 left me with a ravenous hunger for
solitude. I savor my alone time and always have ever since I can remember. As
an adolescent, I frequently retreated to the treasured tranquility of the
bedroom I shared with my sister and where I developed the ability to lose
myself in a Nancy Drew mystery or Rosamond du Jardin novel to tune out the
beehive of noise and activity that was home. Joe has shared similar anecdotes.
We’re natural introverts that silence restores and solitude refreshes much <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">the way others muster
vitality by being in the middle of the fray</span>. We <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">go inside for sustenance, to recharge our batteries, gird our loins and
gather the energy we need to be social. I have to admit that I’ve often
disappeared from business functions and family reunions for some short-term,
restorative calm. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">While there was nothing more lonely than living
in New York City, surrounded by millions and not knowing a single soul, being
swallowed by the great cities of Europe with Joe at my side was heaven. It was
the two of us both against the world and embracing the world,</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"> like the heroes in a picaresque novel</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> with no real need to be social other than
with each other, each of us unambiguously appreciating the periodic need to be
quiet. Such were my thoughts as we arrived in Lorraine </span>and the evocative World War I killing fields. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Visiting the sites of war is not my favorite pastime. It is of great
interest to Joe, however, and it is hard to resist anticipating all he teaches
me in the course of our battlefield pilgrimages.<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> We followed the N35 <i>Route Nationale, </i>dubbed “<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voie_Sacr%C3%A9e" target="_blank">LaVoie Sacrée</a></i>” (The Sacred Way) by the French and still carrying this
nickname today into Verdun. During the almost yearlong battle for the city,
this vital route provided the only access into the beleaguered center and to
the front, all other roads cut off by German firepower. Endless monuments,
graveyards and war sites line the route and after stopping at many, we
eventually made our way to </span>Fort Douaumont in the hills just northeast of
the city. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Easily captured by
the Germans in the early days of the Battle of Verdun, it remains a dangerous
place. Signs along the pathways read:
“Dear Friends and Pilgrims, For your own safety and out of respect for those
who fought and died in Verdun, please keep to the footpaths and do not enter
the fortifications. Take care of your children: the weapons of war can still
kill!” A short drive from the fort and the apparently still live minefields, the
Douaumont Ossuary sits high on a hill, overlooks a French military cemetery and
houses the remains of over 130,000 unidentified soldiers who lost their lives on
the battlefield.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">World War I was characterized by especially brutal human slaughter and
the scale of destruction of the war that was intended to end all wars, was
unprecedented. While the trenches and mine craters have been softened by time
and the greening forces of nature have managed to reclaim much of the landscape,
the scars remain nonetheless. We continued traveling west in warm drizzle down narrow
country roads behind plodding farm vehicles while huge white dairy cows grazed
on age-old farms whose mossy stone buildings appeared to have been there since
the middle ages. While there was no direct fighting on these farmlands, I could
only imagine the devastation experienced by those who had lived there. So
many millions of lives were lost in the First World War and for what? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">As we approached Paris in wistful silence, our introversion continued.
It had been a sobering gray and dreary road trip with the sun remaining hidden
and there was a humidity we hadn’t sensed since we’d left the US. We’d better
get used to it, I thought. We’re eight days away from heading home to the
closing weeks of a Washington summer where mugginess will be impossible to
avoid. Yes, there will be the mid-Atlantic heat, haze and humidity to endure --
there will be the obvious weather adjustment but oh so many more. The lights and
bustle of Paris were on the horizon and we counted on them to pull us out of
our shells and lift our subdued spirits. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Pictures of our adventures: <a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</a></span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Chablis, France47.815269 3.80045147.729966 3.6425224999999997 47.900572000000004 3.9583795tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-36160631673380933322012-09-14T10:54:00.002-07:002012-09-15T15:49:12.803-07:00Heading North<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>729</o:Words>
<o:Characters>4157</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>34</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>9</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>4877</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">We're clearly no longer in Aix. The sun is gone, thick clouds have
moved in, it’s dreary and it's raining. Burgundy and its famous wines are
lovely but I so miss the southern sun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">A mere five hours on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoroute" target="_blank">autoroute</a> and we’d arrived in a different world. You can drop France into America’s
second largest state with a few stray Texan angles poking out, but the
geographical variety found in the hexagon outdoes the Lone Star State, hands
down. Every corner has its own special treasures and we’ve loved getting to
know so many of them but the stops we planned for the five days our way up to
Paris would all be in areas new to us: Burgundy, Lorraine and Picardy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">As
we left Aix and headed north, we waved goodbye to the fields of sunflowers
flanking either side of the highway. We passed by their heavy, bowing heads
that just like the lavender, were done with the season, their broad round faces
all tired and brown. And so the recitation of our on the road “lasts” began: we
saw our last sunflowers; we picked up our last rental car; we paid our last toll;
we stopped at our last rest stop; we exited our last <i>autoroute</i>. There would be countless more Gap Year “lasts” in the
coming days and each time we checked them off, it took just a little something out
of me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I
thought of the string of valedictions behind us – the farewells we’d said to places,
images, people and experiences – and it reminded me of the things we’d left
strewn in our wake. <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">All along the way, every time we repacked, we
did everything we could to lighten our heavy load. I convinced </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">Joe to finally say
goodbye to the rarely used, clumsy golf umbrella he lugged along for eight
months (I called it Albie, short for Albatross).</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"> </span>And there are t-shirts, shorts, socks, jeans,
sweaters, scarves and guidebooks -- in<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"> bus depots, train stations
and hotel rooms, on park benches, train compartment seats and tourist office
bookcases. We generated a trail of laundry -- things either </span>no longer needed <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">or that we could no
longer bear to wear -- from France to Turkey and abandoned a packed duffle on
wheels in a train station in Sicily.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">The note said, “I’m for
whomever wants me.” Throughout our trip, I anticipated the day, with both dread
and more than a little amusement, that we would see someone on a train or on a
line in front of us wearing one of Joe’s discarded sweaters or my oversized sweatpants.
<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Just
in time, our arrival at the incomparable pink and green shuttered Bernard
Loiseau country auberge in tiny <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saulieu" target="_blank">Saulieu</a>, smack in the middle of vineyard-rich <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgundy" target="_blank">Burgundy</a>,
snapped me out of my soulful reverie looking backwards. It was time to face
forward and appreciate present pleasures. For years I had hoped to one day
visit the legendary inn <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">(where everything is about the food), </span>lovingly built around the three-starred Michelin restaurant as its
centerpiece, despite the fact that the property is burdened with a tragic story.
I had learned about the establishment and its chef, Bernard Loiseau, a deeply troubled,
driven, perfectionist husband and father of three, in an interview with his
wife on the French program, <i>Champs-Elysées</i>.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">In
2003 at age 52 and in the depths of clinical depression, Bernard committed
suicide at his home around the corner from the restaurant after putting in a
full day’s work in the kitchen amid rumors that his restaurant was on the verge
of losing one of its three stars. He had worked tirelessly for 17 years to
establish his preeminence and earn his bona fides, yet was deeply in debt and had
grown increasingly despondent. His aggrieved yet accomplished widow, Dominique,
took over the business, which not only survived the family tragedy but also prospered
under her direction. The ironic chapter of the sad story is that the restaurant
was never downgraded, never lost a star<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"> and in the hands of new executive chef,
Patrick Bertron, has thrived.</span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We spent two nights at the <a href="http://www.bernard-loiseau.com/uk/index.php" target="_blank">Relais Bernard Loiseau</a> and ate our way
through our first ever three-star meal.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> The rustically elegant dining room was warmly
decorated, dimly lit and looked out on a leafy garden courtyard.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The meal did not
disappoint. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">For
over two hours we surrendered to the </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">sheer love of eating and delighted in savoring
every dish, <i>gourmandise</i> and <i>mignardise</i> put in front of us. Every
mouthful was exquisite, each a tiny spoonful of sublime nuggets with subtle
flavors, and all accompanied by a delicate</span> <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Pouilly-Fuissé.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"> </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Our dinner was
outstanding and faultlessly executed, the atmosphere was relaxed, the service
was friendly and unhurried and there were no pretentions to be found. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">While we certainly missed the blue skies of Aix, the dining room radiance
of our dinner in Burgundy went a long way towards easing our ache for the sun. Through
the power of taste and a fine dining experience, we paid tribute to Bernard
Loiseau, his passion for food and the classic French restaurant he left behin d.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>20</o:Words>
<o:Characters>117</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>1</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>1</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>136</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Pictures
of our adventures: <a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</a></span><b><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: 18.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Saulieu, France47.279494 4.2286847.2364045 4.149716 47.3225835 4.307644tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-10241608627266913452012-09-06T06:59:00.002-07:002012-09-13T02:27:08.260-07:00Fabulous Field Trips<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1474</o:Words>
<o:Characters>8406</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>70</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>19</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>9861</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">On any given day in Aix, there were myriad choices
for things to do. We took fabulous field trips with classmates on outings organized
by school, attended presentations and ventured out on our own in and out of
town. Perhaps because the prospect of remaining sedentary in a corner cafe was
so appealing, we valiantly fought the urge until we’d been up and on the go and
then rewarded ourselves afterwards with some cafe culture relaxation.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">Aix is graced with a <a href="http://www.relaischateaux.com/en/destinations/region/297/Provence/297/aixenprovence/2143/" target="_blank">Relais et Chateaux</a> property
on the edge of town secreted behind tall, thick hedges of cypress and oleander and
perched on the side of a hill. One afternoon after class, we enjoyed lunch at
the <a href="http://www.villagallici.com/en/restaurant" target="_blank">Villa Gallici</a> </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">on a sycamore-shaded terrace at a glass-topped
table in thick-cushioned patio chairs overlooking a fashionable pool. While enjoying
the afternoon through the gentle haze of a bottle of Bandol rose, we were were
fascinated by the image of a waiter in a tuxedo delivering perfect chicken salads
on a silver tray to a willowy woman in an itsy bitsy burgundy bikini lounging
under a matching oversized pool umbrella with her young son. Only in France and
only on the terrace of a Relais et Chateux hotel is such a tableau possible.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">We went on a weekend school outing to the
Mediterranean coastal towns of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Ciotat" target="_blank">La Ciotat</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cassis" target="_blank">Cassis</a>. Our bus was packed with
international students ready for a day at the shore. Our first stop was La
Ciotat’s Saturday morning market along the harbor </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">where we shopped for fresh provisions for lunch. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Market
people are happy people and w</span>e have
yet to meet a surly seller behind an open-air stand. We filled our bags with
tapenades, a baguette, chunks of cheese, slices of ham, sun-dried tomatoes and
juicy white peaches, our mouths watering for the picnic lunch we soon devoured
at our second stop, the local beach. The day was the usual (but never taken for
granted) sun and azure skies with scorching heat best avoided in the cool shade
of seaside cedars. Post-picnic, we moved on to the charming little town of
Cassis where we caught a boat to explore <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calanque" target="_blank">LesCalanques</a></i>, remarkable steep-walled limestone coves with perfectly clear
water that perforate the Mediterranean shoreline east of Marseille. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Sunburned and exhausted
from the excursion, we all piled onto the bus for the brief trip back to Aix.
Just after we’d all settled in for a quiet ride home, a couple of renegade
Cavaillon melons escaped from shopping bags at the rear of the bus and came
rolling down the center aisle, much to everyone’s amusement. It was a fitting
end to another glorious day in the abundant Eden that is the south of France. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marseille" target="_blank">Marseille </a>was a brief 30-minute bus ride directly south of Aix and so
we ventured out on our own for an afternoon in the <i>vieux port</i>. Founded in 600 BC and the oldest town in France, it is
now the second largest city in the country (although the residents of Lyon often
like to challenge this Marseillais claim). We had an early seafood dinner along
the lines of yachts and fishing boats and were pleasantly surprised that the
wharf area wasn’t half as gritty as we’d imagined. Despite the sea breezes the
day was extremely hot, lethargy prevailed and we found ourselves purchasing the
most touristy ticket of our year. We took the little baby blue train on wheels that
wanders around the city and up to the top of a limestone peak with a panoramic
view over the city. As we approached the summit, the electronically generated
(and apparently translated) French commentary announced that we were arriving
at the <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Notre-Dame_de_la_Garde" target="_blank">Notre Dame de la Garde</a></i> church,
famous for its 30-foot high gilded Madonna and Child atop the steeple. So far,
so good except that the English translation that followed suggested that we,
"look up to see the golden Virgin and her Kid." We must have been the
only English speakers aboard because we were the only ones laughing.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">I was so proud of Joe,
quite the adventurer when it came to accompanying me and paying close attention
to school-sponsored, all-in-French epicurean presentations. As he likes to
remind me, when the subject is food and wine, his comprehension is amazingly
good. The first was a wine <i>dégustation</i>
(tasting) in the IS school building. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">Our master wine prof brought five wonderful bottles
for us to sample after a brilliant lecture about the history of wine and the
finer points of drinking it. We’ve been to many wine tastings over the years and
at each one we learn something. One of the fascinating new nuggets imparted was
that the reason vineyards developed along rivers and the sea was not because
grapevines needed irrigating. Rather, it was that most of the ancients traveled
by water, communicating with those along the way about the science of viticulture;
thus was the word disseminated. It all started in eastern Turkey and spread out
from there.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">When there’s wine, cheese
is sure to follow, so our next <i>dégustation
</i>was of the dairy variety at the home of a local Aixois woman – a lovely
hostess who delighted in opening her doors to international students. We
sampled almost all the cheeses presented -- at least 30 local varieties -- all
sheep and goat cheeses since there are no cows in Provence (it's much too hot
to grow grass for them to eat). We tried everything from the bland, watery <i>fromage frais</i> to the buttery, runny,
stinky sort. Each taste was enjoyed with a slice of French bread and either a
spoonful of homemade olive, pesto and sundried tomato spreads or a touch of thick
homemade jams – and of course, a healthy swig of full-bodied red wine. Every
bite was delicious</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> and further convinced us we were indeed in heaven. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Next up on our dégustation circuit
was a tasting of olive oils from France, Spain and Greece. As olive lovers, we’ve
always enjoyed the rich, unctuous quality of the fruit’s oil -- fish and
vegetables cooked in it and pasta and bread dripping with it – but we never
knew much about where it came from or how it was produced. Thanks to our <i>sympa, </i>knowledgeable <i>prof</i>, a passionate olive oil aficionado,
we are now much wiser. He was a delightful man who pulled Joe and me aside
after class to make sure we knew just how much he loves welcoming foreigners
(and Americans in particular) to France and hearing them speak French. He was
fascinated by our love for his country and his language and we did our best to
be worthy diplomats and gracious students while expounding on our Francophilia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">A few factoids we learned: Spain
Italy and Greece produce 75% of the world’s olive oil while France’s miniscule production
level drops it towards the bottom of the list; there’s an International Olive
Council (the IOC) based in Madrid, which defines and regulates the standards
for olive oil production, much as the AOC body watches over French wine; </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">olives, pits and
all, are pressed to extract the oil; extra virgin olive oil is unrefined with
no heat or chemicals added in the production process and has the highest levels
of antioxidants; an olive oil marked “first cold press” means that the fruit
was processed just once and at appropriately low temperatures since heat, while
making extraction easier, actually degrades an oil’s quality. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Our
lovely, tasty late afternoon program turned into our dinner as we sampled the
oils unaccompanied on a teeny spoon as well as coating a variety of breads,
fruits and cheeses.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">On our last full day in
Aix, we signed on for a final Saturday field trip with a couple dozen fellow French
students. We first stopped at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riez" target="_blank">Riez</a>, a bustling little market town and former
Roman community, for lunch supplies. Our bus then took us to the striking
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Verdon_Gorge" target="_blank">Gorges du Verdon</a>, a deep, compact chasm at the bottom of which rushes beautiful,
chalky turquoise water headed for the man-made <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_of_Sainte-Croix" target="_blank">Lac Sainte-Croix</a>.</span> The time available didn’t allow for more than an hour’s walk
beside the lake, but we made a mental note to return someday for a substantial
hike in the Gorges. <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">A visit to the pilgrimage town of
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moustiers-Sainte-Marie" target="_blank">Moustiers-Sainte-Marie</a> built into a rocky cliff </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;">and famous for its <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faience" target="_blank">faïence</a>ceramics topped off the daytrip. Despite its beautiful vistas and charming
character, it left me feeling terribly <i>triste</i></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">.
After ascending and then coming back down the dramatic cliff stairway to its
Notre Dame church, we said goodbye to the medieval village, as we would reluctantly
say goodbye to Aix the following day. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The two-hour bus ride back home was a
tough one. We’d been out in the sun all day, were parched and tired and with the
physically and emotionally difficult task of packing up our month in Aix ahead
of us that evening, we had little energy for levity. I’d been feeling somewhat
melancholy since I’d closed the door on my last French class the day before and
had to say goodbye to the school and teachers I so adored. Bidding farewell to
Aix was going to take further toll on my already wistful state. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">My forehead against the sun-warmed bus
window, I watched the parallel rows of dull lavender along the back roads of
Provence pass one after the other with none of their luster left. The
sun-soaked plants, those that hadn’t yet been harvested, had completely lost
their royal purple hues, their tiny blooms faded to a tired gray. </span>I related to their end of season<i> </i>torpor and felt a sadness rise<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">
from deep within. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Less than two weeks of our Gap Year remained and I
wondered, what comes next once you’ve been lucky enough to live out your dream?
How do you manage to take the subsequent step? To find the energy to move
towards whatever might ensue? I resolved on that long, hot bus ride back to Aix
to simply focus on coming back to the lavender. Provence will always be there
and yes, I will always come back. For more field trips. For more wine, more
cheese, more olive oil. And certainly for more of the lavender. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Pictures
of our adventures: <a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</a></span><b><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: 18.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Aix-en-Provence, France43.529742 5.44742743.437644 5.2894985000000005 43.62184 5.6053555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-39094915983453128352012-08-28T16:24:00.002-07:002012-09-08T13:25:27.093-07:00A Day in Our Life in Aix<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>997</o:Words>
<o:Characters>5688</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>47</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>13</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>6672</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">The wealth of Aix
was plentiful and varied: friendly people, a warm ambiance and relaxed culture,
delicious food, plentiful wine, vibrant cafes, sophisticated restaurants, an abundant
natural environment, exquisite art, elegant buildings, charming museums, Roman
ruins, and thousands of years of history. But the standard script of our every
day remained constant; </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">o</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">ur
life in Aix was rewarding, sweet and simple. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Every morning at
5:45, we’re awakened by the chartreuse-uniformed workman who hoses down the rue
</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Frédéric Mistral</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"> two floors below the bedroom window </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">of our modern pied-à-terre</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">. He power washes the street,
as they do all over Aix, leaving it scrubbed and ready for the waves of day-tripping
visitors that will soon swarm the town. Five minutes later, </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">the church bells chime (inexplicably,
at ten minutes before the hour) and I stumble out of bed while Joe sleeps in.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">I put on the
coffee, open the living room window and push open the heavy wooden shutters. </span>Incessant birdsong greets me in the soft light of
morning, the bold Provençal sun not yet having risen. I grab a yogurt from the
fridge, sit down at the kitchen table, quickly check my emails and then review
my homework for French class. I read what’s <i>à
la une</i> -- in the headlines -- of <i>L’Express</i>
online, find an interesting story I can share in class, carefully read it
several times and scribble brief summary notes. By 7:30, <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">the buzzing of the <i>motocyclettes </i>whizzing by on the street
below has become consistent, marking the arousal of the waking city. I lean out
the window, see that the sun has risen, creating sharp-lined shadows on the pale
yellow walls and blue-gray shutters of the building <i>juste en face</i> – on the opposite side of the narrow street. By 8:00,
Joe joins me for breakfast and we review our plans for the day.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">At 8:40, I grab a water
bottle and a piece of fruit and Joe </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">walks me to school.
It’s a beautiful walk and while we occasionally vary our route, we most often head
straight across the Cours Mirabeau, through the <i>Passage Agard</i> that cuts through the row of golden <i>hôtels particuliers</i> and in</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">to the square of the<i> Palais de Justice.</i></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> We slowly weave our way through the open-air morning market, inhaling
and ogling the irresistible offerings. We turn right on the <i>rue Portalis </i>which leads us to the <i>Cours des Arts et Métiers</i> and where I
spend my mornings at IS Aix-en-Provence. The school is lodged in a two-storied building
with tall thick-paned windows, small, cozy classrooms and creaky old wooden
floors. Classes start at 9 and for the next three and a half hours I converse
with my engaging teacher and nine interesting classmates. I revel in knowing I am
the luckiest person in the world as I continue my French education.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">On his way back to our
apartment, Joe lingers in the markets, buying fresh produce from a list I’ve
prepared and whatever else appeals to him. We’ll make our lunch from the bags
of hand-wrapped goodies he’s brought home. On alternate days, he runs through
Aix, doing his best to stick to the shaded parks including <i><a href="http://www.mairie-aixenprovence.fr/Promenade-de-la-Torse" target="_blank">La Promenade de la Torse</a></i> along the southeastern flank of town.</span><b><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">At 12:30 I say <i><a href="http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_does_%C3%A0_demain_mean" target="_blank">à demain</a></i> to my teacher and classmates and
head home, my head filled with new vocabulary and expressions I’m anxious to
try on the locals. I amble down the pedestrian lanes and stop at our regular boulangerie
to pick up <i>une fournée</i>, our new
favorite variety of French bread. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">While all French baguettes
are delicious, this particular loaf is made from whole-wheat flour, is especially
crunchy on the outside and deliciously yeasty on the inside. Warm <i>fournée</i> tucked under my arm, I turn left
down the </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1270097260">rue </a></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=rue+Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric+Mistral+aix&hl=en&ie=UTF8&sll=46.017946,4.594002&sspn=0.045835,0.077162&hnear=Rue+Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric+Mistral,+13100+Aix-en-Provence,+Bouches-Du-Rh%C3%B4ne,+Provence-Alpes-C%C3%B4te+d'Azur,+France&t=m&z=16" target="_blank">Frédéric Mistral</a>, ring the bell outside our
apartment and Joe buzzes me in.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;"> </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">We spread out our lunch and
dine deliciously on fresh Provençal fare as we fill in each other on our
mornings. By this time the sun has climbed high in the sky, warming our
unairconditioned space beyond comfort but our industrial strength fan manages
to keep us cool.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Our afternoon itineraries
vary but if there is no school excursion scheduled, they often include
wandering around town to take in a museum, find a new park, watch the local men
play boules or look for new, interesting restaurants. We pass by the luscious
displays of fruit tarts and cream-filled pastries in <i>pâtisserie</i> windows (gorgeous to the eye but the way my palate
swings, I more often yearn for creamy goat cheese on a toasted tartine). </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">July
is the month for huge clothing sales -- <i>les
soldes</i> - in France, but since I have no more room in my suitcase and no
more euros in my wallet, I can only </span><i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;">fais du
lèche-vitrine</span></i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"> (window shop)</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">. I am so ready to burn my
clothes, having worn the same things for 11 months, and I can barely even look
at them no less put them on, but shopping will have to wait until we’re once
again employed.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">By late afternoon it’s time
to slow down and we often stop at a Cours Mirabeau cafe to enjoy a cocktail and
watch the parade of passersby. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">While I love the look of
the brightly colored drinks (tinted with mint & grenadine syrups) the
French enjoy over ice in summer, I have no desire to try them. We stick to
sipping kirs or rosé to pass the time before dinner. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">The
days are long with the sun burning late into the evening. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">It remain</span>s light until 10 pm so eating at 8:00 feels
premature, even for early diners like us. There is never a rush while eating
out in France – you essentially own your table’s real estate until you take
your leave – and the bill is never presented until requested. And so we enjoy
our dinners leisurely, accompanied by heartfelt conversation, always under the
stars.<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">We</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">
stroll home, hand-in-hand, during <i>l’</i></span><i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;">heure bleue, </span></i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;">that romantic French expression for
the twilight time between day and night when it’s not yet dark but no longer
light.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";"> The daily tourists have disappeared and the town is back in the
hands of the locals and the very-lucky temporary residents. The <i>marché nocturne</i> -- the evening market –
is in full swing, but we’ve done our shopping for the day and will save any new
purchases for the following morning. W</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">e turn on the <i>télé</i> and watch an hour of <i>les JO</i> – <i>les Jeux Olympiques</i> – broadcast live from London. Yet again we </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">hear the energized announcer
pronounce Michael Phelps, with a thick French accent, <i>“un champion exceptionnel!”</i></span><i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">The sun sets on
another day in our life in Aix. I watch the aerial evening dance of the
swallows, take a moment and listen to the thin strains of their cries before I secure
the shutters, drop into bed and close my eyes. It’s been one more day in
paradise.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Pictures
of our adventures: <a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</a><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Rue Frédéric Mistral, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France43.5253874 5.450948543.5239484 5.448481 43.5268264 5.453416tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-53235575534644217262012-08-26T04:45:00.001-07:002017-02-10T18:41:38.883-08:00Stalking Cézanne<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>878</o:Words>
<o:Characters>5009</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>41</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>11</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>5876</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Most artists I truly appreciate are
those I’ve studied either formally or casually, in college or on my own, and
such was the case with <a href="http://www.paul-cezanne.org/" target="_blank">Paul Cézanne</a>. I’d always found his paintings of Provençal
landscapes with their ochre tones and depictions of Mont Sainte Victoire
pleasing. But now that I feel I’ve forged a close personal connection with him
(after all, we lived in his town and over the course of a month visited all the
seminal spots of his life), he’s emerged as one of my favorites. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Cézanne was Provençal through and
through and above all he was a son of Aix. He </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">was passionately
attached to his hometown, particularly the perpetual play of its vivid light on
the countryside that so influenced his life’s work. As I’ve now come to learn, </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Cézanne’s </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">art
progressed and transformed over the years until it settled on the precipice of
cubism and abstraction leading many to deem him the father of modern painting. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Our quest for the true Cézanne began at the <i><a href="http://www.paul-cezanne.org/House-And-Farm-At-Jas-De-Bouffan.html" target="_blank">Jas de Bouffan</a></i>, his family’s home just west of town. It suddenly
and surprisingly materializes along a rather dreary stretch of road populated with
car washes, chain hotels and mini-marts. The verdant property with its straight
sycamore-lined approach is secreted behind high stone walls and an equally high
iron gate entry, all of which sat alone on the route into town when Cézanne
lived there with his parents in the late 1800s. The rectangular manor house is where
he completed his first paintings in the high-ceilinged dining room turned
artist’s studio and he used its walls as large experimental canvases. We took a
look at at the residence’s gardens, backyard chestnut trees, statues, pond and
potting shed and were able to identify them all in the artist’s many tableaux<b>.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Next up on our journey </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">in the footsteps of Cézanne </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">were
the <a href="http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/cezanne/st-victoire/bibemus-quarry.jpg" target="_blank">Bibémus quarries</a> on a rocky plateau to the east of Aix where he spent a lot
of time as a teen. It was while walking there under plentiful pines with his
boyhood friend, Emile Zola (yes indeed, that Zola) that he discovered the
painter inside him. The sandstone quarries were worked until the mid-19<sup>th</sup>
century but when Cézanne and his chum came upon them, they were abandoned and
overgrown. The mustard- and molasses-colored rock retained the angular, geometric
shapes cut by hand by the quarry laborers in sharp contrast to the surrounding,
more gentle, green and brown lines of nature. Cézanne was drawn to the
distinction and the urge to depict it on canvas consumed him. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">We followed the artist’s route on the fragrant pine
needle-cushioned forest paths through the quarries to the stone hut with the
red wooden door where he safeguarded his artwork and slept. In the valley far
below were rows of green vineyards and golden fields of wheat in juxtaposition
to the red and orange clay of the plateau. It was from a vantage point near his
cabin that Cézanne viewed and painted, almost obsessively, the dramatic, 3,300-foot
<a href="http://www.paul-cezanne.org/Mont-Sainte-Victoire-(Metropolitan).html" target="_blank">Mont Saint Victoire</a> against the deep blue sky of Provence. The famous Provençal
mountain dominates the artist’s work and nearly 100 of his paintings feature
the rugged, gray stone peak. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">We had hoped to make the
demanding trek to the top of </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Mont Sainte Victoire after our visit
to </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Bibémus</span>, but since the
summer Mistral can fan a flame from a spark or cigarette butt carelessly tossed
on the scorched terrain, the mountain park is closed in July and August. We
settled for<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">the brief but beautiful hour-long
hike down the ridge from the plateau to</span>
the small, shaded town of <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Le Tholonet, </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">one of Cézanne's favorite
retreats. The village has two nice restaurants, a large pit for playing <i>pétanque</i>, lots of trees and a lovely chateau
painted by Cézanne. We chose <i><a href="http://www.relais-cezanne.com/" target="_blank">Le RelaisCézanne</a></i> for lunch and wiled away some of the hot afternoon on its cool
terrace.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">The artist’s studio halfway up the <a href="http://www.marseille-provence.info/aix-en-provence/paul-cezanne/191-the-studio-at-les-lauves.html" target="_blank">Lauves Hill</a> north of Aix, which
he customized for the practice of his art and to which he walked every morning of
the final four years of his life, is infused with Cézanne’s presence. The high-ceilinged
room with its huge picture window that allows the room to be bathed in natural light
has been left just as it was by the artist. His furniture, still life objects, painting
chemises, palettes, brushes, tools, overcoat, hat and cane are as they were
when he died in 1906. On the crest of the hill up the road from the studio, the
city of Aix created what they call the </span><i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://reseau.avf.asso.fr/space/avfpertuis/content/photos-de-la-visite-de-l-atelier-cezanne_088CBFF1-11C3-4A94-A51C-822F6790EED6" target="_blank">Terraindes Peintres</a></span></i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> (</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Painters’ Park). The circular, terraced garden
on the ridge from which Cézanne often painted, faces Mont Saint Victoire on the
eastern horizon and presents lacquered reproductions of several paintings of
his most beloved subject. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><a href="http://www.marseille-provence.info/aix-en-provence/what-to-see/329-the-musee-granet.html" target="_blank">The Granet Museum</a> was right around the corner from our apartment
in the <i>Quartier Mazarin</i>. Cézanne studied
drawing there in his early years when the building housed an art school. This
gem of a gallery is considered one the finest in France and owns nine of Cézanne’s
paintings as well as a set of his watercolors. Also on display were a
collection of works by Corot, de Staël, Picasso, Pollock, Rubens, Rembrandt and
Van Gogh. Who knew such a little town like Aix would house such masterpieces of
the art world?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">I ended my pilgrimage</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"> in the </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Saint-Pierre
cemetery</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">
on a scenic hill </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">at the edge of town: the artist’s unassuming
final resting place. Cézanne was born in Aix, he died in Aix and has long been
the town’s most famous native son. My wanderings among the places most
important to him and what they taught me about his art left me with a much
better understanding of the man and an appreciation of the work that drove him.
In the end, I felt like I knew him personally, if only just a bit. It must have
helped that during my brief time in his fair city, I was an ardent Aixois, just
like him.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">https://www.artsy.net/artist/paul-cezanne</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Pictures
of our adventures: <a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</a><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Aix-en-Provence, France43.529742 5.44742743.437644 5.2894985000000005 43.62184 5.6053555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-2464080102182926382012-08-24T10:09:00.000-07:002012-08-25T18:36:28.726-07:00A Night at the Opera<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Helvetica Neue";
panose-1:2 0 5 3 0 0 0 2 0 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-2147483545 0 0 0 1 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Trebuchet MS";
panose-1:2 11 6 3 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:647 0 0 0 159 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
p.MsoListParagraph, li.MsoListParagraph, div.MsoListParagraph
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
/* List Definitions */
@list l0
{mso-list-id:692802871;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:-510592658 1303961146 67698713 67698715 67698703 67698713 67698715 67698703 67698713 67698715;}
@list l0:level1
{mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:40.0pt;
text-indent:-22.0pt;}
@list l0:level2
{mso-level-number-format:alpha-lower;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;}
@list l0:level3
{mso-level-number-format:roman-lower;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:right;
text-indent:-9.0pt;}
@list l0:level4
{mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;}
@list l0:level5
{mso-level-number-format:alpha-lower;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;}
@list l0:level6
{mso-level-number-format:roman-lower;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:right;
text-indent:-9.0pt;}
@list l0:level7
{mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;}
@list l0:level8
{mso-level-number-format:alpha-lower;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;}
@list l0:level9
{mso-level-number-format:roman-lower;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:right;
text-indent:-9.0pt;}
ol
{margin-bottom:0in;}
ul
{margin-bottom:0in;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">Attending a performance under the stars in the
ancient Roman theater in Orange, France was a bucket list item for me. I was
well aware, and he reminded me often, that the experience hadn’t made the top
of his list, but Joe agreed to be my date, good sport that he is. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The <i><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://theatre-antique.com/en/home" target="_blank">ThéâtreAntique d'Orange</a>, </span></i></span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">considered, without a doubt, to be among the
finest remains of the Roman Empire in Europe,</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"> is a semi-circular stone auditorium,
which seats 9,000. Built in the 1st century, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site
and home to the internationally known summer opera festival, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.choregies.asso.fr/" target="_blank">Chorégies d’Orange</a></i>. It is </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Trebuchet MS";">about
an hour’s drive north of Aix s</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">ituat</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Trebuchet MS";">ed
in the Rhone valley and therefore subject to the whipping winds of the Mistral.
The theater’s audience faces north and the original blind stage wall with its
back to the notorious wind remains intact, thereby bestowing performances with protection
from the elements and outstanding acoustics. Festivals of all variety of
performing arts have been held at the </span><i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Théâtre Antique </span></i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">since the middle of the 1800s</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"> but in 1969, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Chorégies</i> became dedicated to opera
alone, leaving theatrical works to migrate to Avignon. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">Our long-awaited evening began well. It was a
typically sweltering evening in Provence and even the shadows of a sinking sun
brought little relief. So it was with great gusto that we gulped down liberal
goblets of the refreshing house aperitif at the outdoor cafe at which we dined:
grapefruit juice and rose wine over ice. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">Perfect for a hot, dry
pre-opera evening. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">We took our seats in the well-preserved theater,
amazed that we were sitting on the same quarried stones graced by Roman
derrieres some 2,000 years ago. The sun had set, the performance soon started,
the orchestra was brilliant and the setting was spectacular. All was going
perfectly when the unfortunate episode with the leading man took over and the
evening ended in disappointment.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">I have history with live opera, bad history in
fact, and with the performance in Orange, my misadventures persisted:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 40pt; text-align: left; text-indent: -22pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-font-family: Courier;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">December 2011: Attempted to get tickets in Milan for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Don Giovanni</i> at La Scala. It was opening
night and they laughed at us.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 40pt; text-align: left; text-indent: -22pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-font-family: Courier;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">May 2012: Got tickets for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Bohème</i>
at La Fenice in Venice. There was an earthquake that morning and the theater
sustained damage so the performance was cancelled.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 40pt; text-align: left; text-indent: -22pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-font-family: Courier;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">July 2012: Attended Turandot at the ancient Roman amphitheater in
Orange. It was a beautiful performance but the lead tenor’s voice gave in to a
virus in the third act and he was unable to sing the show's signature aria, and
my forever favorite, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbGKQ8YASCY" target="_blank">Nessum Dorma</a></i>.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">I think I give up. No, I know I give up. I was
able to cross the item from my list – live opera under the stars in Orange:
check. But from now on, I'm planning to stick with listening to Andrea Bocelli
on my iPod.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pictures
of our adventures:</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier;"></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Ancient Theatre of Orange, Rue Madeleine Roch, 84100 Orange, France44.135806 4.80866444.124410000000005 4.7889230000000005 44.147202 4.828405tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-72131342019530728792012-08-24T06:04:00.003-07:002012-08-25T18:37:12.337-07:00Royal Sycamores and Plebeian Manners<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>665</o:Words>
<o:Characters>3794</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Self Employed</o:Company>
<o:Lines>31</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>8</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>4451</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">There’s something magical about the sycamores of France. <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9_jtPIRmPuo/Tm63kcNJAdI/AAAAAAAAOug/LxgozeUg-QI/s1600/2011090809%2B%2BXingguo%2BLu%2Bsycamore%2Btrees.jpg" target="_blank">L<i>es platanes</i></a> in French, or plane trees,
are majestic, soaring, 100–foot tall giants that line country roads, create
stylish boulevard approaches to myriad villages and are essential to the charm
of Provence. They are found all over the hexagon but especially in southern
France. Their thick, flat-leafed foliage provides umbrellas of much-needed
shade from the summer sun for town centers, village squares and family gardens.
Napoleon should be thanked for the profusion of Provençal <i>platanes</i> since he planted many of them to help protect his files of
foot soldiers from the sun’s punishing heat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">One of our favorite Aix
pastimes is sitting under the dense shade of sycamores, their green </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">canopies
arching over squares filled with appealing little bistro tables.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">
</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">As is
a pleasure all over France, you can get the most amazing food on these open-air terraces
outside what appear to be little one-room, cubbyhole cafes. Where do they stash
all the fresh ingredients they transform into generous plats du jour: bright salads
overflowing with vegetables, fruit, ham, sundried tomatoes and thick slices of
cheese? There must be well-supplied kitchen compartments hidden behind the unassuming
facades; I’m convinced of it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">The unique mosaic of the
sycamores’ <a href="http://www.etsu.edu/arboretum/images/sycamore4.jpg" target="_blank">peeling bark</a> intrigues us -- uneven patterns of pastel yellows, tawny
russets, avocado greens and dull grays. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">We nibble on olives, sip chilled wine, dine</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;"> leisurely
on local specialties, linger over coffee and </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">sit listening to the pleasing Provençal
accents of the Aixois. We overhear the daily chatter of university students on
their lunch breaks, the local women after their mornings at the market and the retired
gentlemen not occupied with playing <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P%C3%A9tanque" target="_blank">pétanque</a>
</i>(the particular Provençal version of <i>boules</i>)
who sit under umbrellas playing cards.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">People-watching under the <i>platanes</i> is wide-ranging and never-ending but from time to time we
identify types: the Chinese couple with dueling iPhones taking serial pictures
of each other as they stroll down the Cours Mirabeau; the middle-aged English
couple, all dressed up in their white, blousy, south-of-France holiday outfits
but looking rather bored with each other; </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">the
tall, lithe, Swedish teens in flowered sundresses, straw hats and flip-flops, their
loosely braided blond plaits draped over their shoulders; the American
backpackers lugging oversized packs, sporting well-worn sneakers and apparently
famished as they look longingly at the cafe fare in front of us; the Japanese
honeymooner in her platform sandals, the fact that they’d ne’er before been
worn betrayed by bloody bandages beneath the heel straps, limping through town as
she clings to her new husband. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">We marveled at the locals
dancing the tango on the Place Richelme as they do every summer Sunday at 9pm
under the sycamores, and bemoaned, as my Dad does, the largely lost art of
dancing among the young (almost anyone under 70). Watching the couples move
through the sensual steps of this romantic dance is </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">heartbreakingly
beautiful.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">But every once in a while our idyllic interludes
under royal sycamores are marred by the manners of plebeians. One morning while
enjoying cafés au lait and croissants in the outdoor shade, an Eastern European
quartet of two overly tanned Moms and their matching daughters, each one more
rude than the other, marched onto the terrace, upsetting the drowsy morning
ambience of the place. All were similarly clad in skinny jeans, patent leather
stilettos and Jackie-O shades with “spoiled” plastered across their mascaraed faces.
Upset that the cafe served no food for breakfast and when politely urged, as we
had been, to run up the street to the local boulangerie for croissants, the
most vocal of the four retorted brusquely and loudly, “What, the French don’t
eat breakfast?” We would so like to have witnessed her wobbling up the
cobblestoned hill in search of pastries in those heels. Rather than rebuke the
vocal twenty-something for her behavior, her mother then snapped an order for freshly
squeezed orange juice. The OJ not forthcoming, they settled for espressos and
insolently picked up their Blackberries with corresponding pouts. Bad mannered
people come from all corners of the world and unfortunately they sometimes
choose to sit next to us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pictures of our adventures: </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="color: black;">h</span>ttp://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Aix-en-Provence, France43.529742 5.44742743.437644 5.2894985000000005 43.62184 5.6053555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-5300953135859728692012-08-23T08:36:00.003-07:002012-08-25T18:21:53.004-07:00A Wide-Eyed Schoolgirl<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Verdana;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-1593833729 1073750107 16 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Georgia;
panose-1:2 4 5 2 5 4 5 2 3 3;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Helvetica Neue";
panose-1:2 0 5 3 0 0 0 2 0 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-2147483545 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"></span></b><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">I swear I was born in the wrong country.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> There must have been some mistake. But then again,
if I’d been born in France, surely my passion for all things French wouldn’t be
as ardent. The romantic euphony of the language is what I would have grown up
with and the beautiful, fluid succession of words would simply be an everyday
sound. Some other country’s language and culture would have consumed and
pleased me, so perhaps -- just perhaps -- it’s fortuitous that my birthplace
was Indiana and not Paris. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">Passions
are essential to a rewarding life. Whether it’s running, photography, travel, cats,
fashion or the local baseball team, passions make the world a smaller place – a
place one can deal with on a human scale. When you “care passionately about
something, it whittles the world down to a more manageable size,” as Susan
Orlean writes in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Orchid_Thief" target="_blank">The Orchid Thief</a></i>.
The notion is also related to the old maxim: if there are too many choices, you
just never choose. Too many choices are too overwhelming so you simply walk
away. Passions break this vast world of ours into wieldy little pieces of our
own, like a fragrant garden of perennials in the backyard or a perfect patch of
green lawn in the front – they are our own pieces of the world to love and
nurture and over which we hold sway. Think about the Trekkies who follow their
trail of delight around the country and sometimes the world, convention after
convention. Or the intrepid mountaineers who have tackled every “fourteener” in
the US. Much different passions but they give shape to those individuals’
worlds. My passion for French (and </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">why I love French in particular is
one of those essential mysteries I’ll never fully understand) </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">has drawn us to travel to specific destinations, as
has Joe’s for European history, and we’ve met interesting people and taught
each other so much as we’ve pursued them.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">And so my linguistic fervor landed us in Aix where I continued to follow
my bliss with a month of conversation classes. It also gave Joe some much-appreciated
time to start looking for a job and explore the cafe culture on his own. We
chose the charming location for two reasons: first, it’s long been a university
town infused with the energy of its young residents and second, it’s home to a
wonderful French language school for foreigners: <a href="http://www.is-aix.com/spip.php?rubrique2" target="_blank">IS Aix-en-Provence</a>. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">A daily go-to-school routine helped us
feel like resident members of the community, an attachment we hadn’t truly
experienced during the rest of our trip.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">I love being a
student of French, no matter what my age, but on my first day at school I was
predictably, as I’ve been on day one of any school year, nervous. I chose the
least shabby clothes of those I’ve toted around for a year and laid them out
the night before. Where was my freshly ironed plaid uniform, crisp white
blouse, just-purchased navy knee socks with the tags still attached and my newly
polished oxfords when I needed them? Joe packed my lunch, as if I were in
grammar school (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">un sandwich
jambon/fromage, un Perrier et une pêche</i>), and I was ready to go. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">My giddy, much younger
self comes out the minute I walk into a French classroom where I become, once
again, a wide-eyed schoolgirl eagerly poised over her blank notebook, pencil in
hand and her passion for the subject on her sleeve. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">My class of ten included students from Australia, Austria, Finland,
the Netherlands, Spain and Sweden, none of us youngsters (we were all over 40)
and all on an educational vacation in lovely Aix. When it came time to
introduce myself, I stumbled a bit on the choice of tense. I was fine in terms
of my French; the question was more fundamental. Should I use the present or
the future tense of “to be?” Do I affirm that <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I am</i> a French teacher or do I demur and say that <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I will be</i> a French teacher soon? I made
the right choice and opted for the former, asserting <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I am</i> a French teacher – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Je
suis prof de français. </i>It bolstered my confidence, gave me a little frisson
of pride and sounded right to my novice teacher ears. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">For the next several
weeks I once again experienced the euphoria that comes along with improving how
I express myself in French and absorbing the nuances of this lyrical language. We
were </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">bombarded with new vocabulary, especially those words and
expressions that are part of everyday parlance but are difficult to find in a
dictionary. The more I know, the more I realize I have yet to learn; more than
enough to keep me happily a French student for the rest of my life. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;">The French often turn long
words into short ones by dropping the final syllables and in some cases, adding
an “o.” </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">Apéro</span></i><span style="font-family: Courier;">, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">McDo</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">resto </i>have long been staples of my French vocabulary (the truncated
forms of apéritif, McDonald’s and restaurant), but thanks to my classes, I’ve
now added other abbreviated words to my repertoire: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">les actus</i> (the news), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">accro</i>
(hooked on), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">un </i></span><i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;">ado </span></i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">(adolescent),<i> bio </i>(organic), <i>un dico </i>(dictionary), <i>perso
(personal), </i>and my favorite,<i> Sarko </i>(Nicolas Sarkozy).</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> Each week in class, we </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">had
to prepare a brief presentation about an item in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">les actus</i> and I did one on social media. "<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Twitter</i>" and "<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">blogger,</i>"
I’m happy to report, have now entered the daily lexicon as regular
"er" verbs. We learned the quirky French term for </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">walkie-talkie (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">talkie-walkie</i>),
that the expression </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">vachement
bien</span></i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> (amazingly good) that was used ubiquitously 30 years ago is
much less in vogue nowadays and that it is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">très
chic</i> </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">to say "<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">super!</i>"
(su pehr -- accent on the su), especially if you’re a woman. The cafe was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">"super-bon;"</i> your dress is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">"super-chic;"</i> he looks <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">"super."</i> I imagine the French
language police, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Académie Française</i>,
must be <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">super-fâché</i> (very angry)
about all the new Franglais.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">I had a variety of excellent <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">profs</i> during my month at IS Aix, but my
favorite was Céline who was particularly warm and taught me so much. She was
beautiful, funny and it was obvious she cared deeply about her students. I so
wished I could be like Céline – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">une jolie
française</i> who spoke lovely French. Walking home from class that day it hit
me once again, like it had so many times before: no matter how hard I try, no matter
how much I practice, no matter how fiercely I study, I’ll never be French. I’ll
never sound like Céline. I will always be on the outside looking in, my face
and palms pressed against the glass. It plunged me momentarily into a
micro-flash of depression.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> It was </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;">like being the most
avid opera aficionado in the world who realizes she’ll never be able to do
justice to her favorite aria <sigh>. But I managed to move on, content to
have a passion that so enriches my life.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Much has changed in France over the past 35
years. There’s a new generation in a changed country with kind attitudes, a
customer service orientation and lots of English being spoken. It's difficult
for me to have an exchange in French sometimes because everyone lapses into
English. The outlook in </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">France is so
unlike that of the days of yore. Everyone wants to speak English but I want to
speak French (bolstered by Joe who loves to hear me speak the language) so we
have these uneven, lopsided exchanges:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Good evening, Madame.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Bonsoir, Monsieur.</span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Would you like an apéritif?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Oui, je prends un kir, s’il vous
plaît.</span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Very good, and you sir?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Un kir aussi, merci.</span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">It’s a little disconcerting but they usually get the point and
eventually give us what we want: French! We really do appreciate that they’re
trying to be accommodating, </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">are eager to practice their English skills and are proud
of the level they’ve attained. If only Americans could exhibit the same passion
for acquiring other languages. It’s one of my eternal wishes. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pictures of our adventures: </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"></span></div>
</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Aix-en-Provence, France43.529742 5.44742743.437644 5.2894985000000005 43.62184 5.6053555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-29517909552745380312012-08-21T02:41:00.001-07:002012-08-25T17:20:57.831-07:00Staying Put in Aix<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Verdana;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-1593833729 1073750107 16 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Helvetica Neue";
panose-1:2 0 5 3 0 0 0 2 0 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-2147483545 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Our itinerant days of meandering through the south of France were
over. The time to settle down had arrived and a satisfying, stay-put month in
Aix-en-Provence, a Provençale paradise if ever there was one was ahead of us. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">An</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> amazingly dynamic, livable little town, Aix lies </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">about 20 miles north of Marseille, 40 miles south of the Luberon and 90
miles west of the Riviera. It has been continually inhabited since it was
founded in 123 BC by the Romans who luxuriated in the thermal waters that
continue to flow and provide modern-day hydrotherapy pleasures and benefits at
the Sextuis Baths Spa.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The hub of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Aixois</i> activity is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cours_Mirabeau" target="_blank">Cours Mirabeau</a>, one of the most beautiful
avenues in the world. It starts at the grand </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fontaine_de_la_Rotonde" target="_blank">Fontaine de la Rotonde</a> </span></i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">and runs to the stone statue of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRmpu-bd9CcflEdWC5fQFgYIbKafKS87IhGH2Rl6CRwAlnQoaurNw&t=1" target="_blank">Le Roi René</a> </i></span><span style="font-family: Courier;">(a favorite
leaning post for tourist snapshots)</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">. It’s the Champs Elysées of the south </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">but with a small town vibe and none of Paris’ hustle-bustle and conceit.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"> The broad boulevard
is bordered by elegant </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">18th-century <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">hôtels
particuliers</i></span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">, shaded by double rows of soaring plane trees, dotted with fountains
and lined with chic cafes that spill onto its sidewalks. The most famous eatery
along the Cours is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.les2garcons.fr/" target="_blank">Deux Garçons</a></i>,
built in 1792 and whose most famous patrons were native sons Paul Cézanne and
Emile Zola in the late 19<sup>th</sup> century. The boulevard traces the line
of what was the ancient city wall and splits the town in two: the new town,
known as the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Quartier+Mazarin&ll=43.525931,5.450292&spn=0.025484,0.066047&fb=1&gl=us&hq=Quartier+Mazarin&t=m&z=15" target="_blank">Quartier Mazarin</a></i>, with
its classical grid patterned streets to the south and the old town, its medieval,
irregular streets twisting to the north. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">The place we called home for our month in Aix was a third-floor
walk-up in the Quartier Mazarin just a couple short blocks off the Cours
Mirabeau. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Our one-bedroom apartment was bright, modern and
filled with natural light. While not air-conditioned, it had an industrial
strength fan that chased away the heat of the midday sun and allowed for
comfortable sleeping. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The weather in
Aix was consistent: sunny, hot and dry. On occasion, the day dawned with a
light cover of clouds, but the relentless sun soon reminded the interlopers of who’s
boss and by 9 am, all had cleared to an impossibly blue sky.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">Our
arrival in Aix coincided with the July 14<sup>th</sup> Bastille Day weekend.
Having missed the Fourth of July at home, we’d looked forward to pretending
that the holiday fireworks would be in honor of American's birthday. But much
to our chagrin, </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">Bastille Day at the Rotonde Fountain was a great
big disappointment. The town elders decided to replace the customary fireworks
with an uninspiring ten-minute <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">son et
lumière</i> show and unfortunately, the Americans in attendance were more into
Bastille Day than the French. Oh, there were some red, white and blue lights on
the fountain to honor the French <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tricolor</i>,
but not a note of patriotic music was played – just excerpts from Bolero, the
William Tell Overture and La Traviata. We wanted to scream, “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Marseillaise</i>,” as if overtaken by the
moment at a Lynyrd Skynyrd concert. “Where’s your country spirit on your
national holiday, France?” The lackluster performance left us a bit depressed,
but at least it was the only aspect of our stay in Aix that was a letdown. (The
only other frustration during our month was at the trendy rooftop bistro, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://fromagerie-lemarie.com/Accueil.html" target="_blank">Le Fromagerie</a></i>, at which we’d carefully
made reservations. After 25 minutes our young waitress had yet to acknowledge
our presence. She was definitely a victim of “I’m-so-beautiful-syndrome”: all I
care about is looking lovely and acting sultry and I’ll get to you only when
I’m good and ready. We dropped our menus and left.)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">Every single day in Aix, there is at least
one open-air market: on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Place
Richelme</i>, on the </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Place</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> des </span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Prêcheurs</span></i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> and along the
Cours Mirabeau. Everything from fresh fruit, cheese and vegetables, to honey,
sausage, tapenades and olives, linens, clothing, sandals, lavender soap and hand-crafted
jewelry is sold. It was difficult not to slow to check out the offerings, even
though we’d walked by the stalls time and time again. The displays deserved fresh
ganders just in case some new treasure was being offered and </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";">we
inevitably came away with a new bag of goodies to stock our fridge.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">On one particularly
memorable Sunday, local producers of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coteaux
d'Aix</i></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">-en-Provence</span></i><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> AOC <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provence_wine" target="_blank">wines</a>
</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">offered tastings all afternoon along the Cours Mirabeau. The
vintners showcased and sold their wines with this irresistible proposition: buy
your wine glass for three euros (or bring your own) and go from winery to
winery tasting nectars from 25 vineyards for free. A heavenly afternoon. And a
perfect excuse for midday naps.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">It was love at first sight
with Aix the moment we arrived and we grew to love her even more as we got to
know all her pleasures. There’s a particular brand of the Provençal spirit in the
town as affirmed by</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: "Lucida Grande";"> this sign we saw hanging in a local bus: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS2z-H1e6XL-kBeafFXyN3cBruocCrnWkYL2oloGX6B_Q8GIiZK2g&t=1" target="_blank">Ne soyez pas pressé, ici on se hâtelentement</a></i>.” "Don't be in a rush, we speed up slowly around here."</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pictures of our adventures: </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"></span></div>
</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Aix-en-Provence, France43.529742 5.44742743.437644 5.2894985000000005 43.62184 5.6053555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-43219883737337431282012-08-18T03:31:00.001-07:002012-08-20T06:14:55.665-07:00Exploring Provence<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Courier New";
panose-1:2 7 3 9 2 2 5 2 4 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Wingdings;
panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:2;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:0 268435456 0 0 -2147483648 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
p.MsoListParagraph, li.MsoListParagraph, div.MsoListParagraph
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
/* List Definitions */
@list l0
{mso-list-id:205535306;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:1128046876 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l0:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l0:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l0:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Wingdings;}
ol
{margin-bottom:0in;}
ul
{margin-bottom:0in;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Courier New";
panose-1:2 7 3 9 2 2 5 2 4 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Wingdings;
panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:2;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:0 268435456 0 0 -2147483648 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
p.MsoListParagraph, li.MsoListParagraph, div.MsoListParagraph
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
/* List Definitions */
@list l0
{mso-list-id:205535306;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:1128046876 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l0:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l0:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l0:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-.25in;
font-family:Wingdings;}
ol
{margin-bottom:0in;}
ul
{margin-bottom:0in;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">If Provence is my favorite of the French provinces, the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luberon" target="_blank">Luberon </a>is my
favorite spot in Provence. It is comfortingly familiar, not just because I’d
read Peter Mayle’s bestseller, <i>A Year in
Provence</i>, but because the landscape and the architecture and the flora seem
right. Even the first time we visited, it felt like we’d been there before.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">It was difficult to get a last-minute reservation in the Luberon in
July but after repeated attempts we finally secured a room at <i><a href="http://www.roy-soleil.com/" target="_blank">Le Roy Soleil</a></i> in Ménerbes. The charming mas
(a traditional Provençal farmhouse) turned hotel is nestled among the vineyards
in the Luberon valley at the foot of the picturesque hill town. Our garret room
looked over the vine-encircled, umbrella-covered terrace that serves as the
dining room in the summer. The smell of strong coffee wafting up to our window and
the tinkling of breakfast silverware woke us every morning and we fell asleep
to the murmur of intimate, whispered dinner conversations below. One evening we
joined the guests on the patio and had an evening meal of Provençal specialties
that included healthy helpings of olives and fresh vegetables. Joe feasted on </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">lamb with
crispy rice and asparagus, I had langoustines with fava beans </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">and we shared a bottle of the local rosé chilled in
a stylish, pastel </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">plastic ice bag (all the rage all over France). </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">As we consistently manage to eat too much
fine food and drink too much good wine, in an attempt to still fit into our
clothes we also persist in taking long walks, running when we can and seeking
out interesting hikes. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">We stumbled on the latter when we decided to follow the
intriguing signs that took us to <i><a href="http://www.colorado-provencal.com/" target="_blank">LeColorado Provençal de Rustrel</a></i> in the northeast corner of the Luberon. What
a find! The beautiful, relatively undiscovered park is the site of an abandoned
ochre quarry and the miles of trails took us past simply beautiful red, gold,
tawny and pure white cliffs and wind-sculpted spire formations set against a
deep blue sky. We hiked for about two hours, marveled at the colors, worked up
an appetite and then found a little cafe in the village of Rustel to once again
do what we do best: eat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">We ventured out on additional exploratory jaunts and came back at the
height of the fiercest heat of the late afternoon to lounge by the pool, lay in
the sun and brown like roasts on the recliners. The sun was so unrelenting and
the air so dry that five minutes after taking a dip in the water, our bathing
suits had dried and it was as if we’d never gotten wet. So back into the water
we went. At one point Joe observed, “Look at the size of that dragonfly!”
“That’s no insect, my dear, that’s a hummingbird,” I marveled. We were
fascinated by the<i> colibri</i> darting in
and out of the poolside lavender and it was impossible to snap an unblurred
picture because the little guy was moving so fast. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">We did our best to visit all the top sights in the valley, -- the
hilltop towns of Gordes and Lacoste (where the Marquis de Sade once lived in
its chateau), Bonnieux and Ménerbes, Lourmarin and Roussillon (an incredibly
beautiful ochre village, definitely one of our favorites)-- as well as</span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;"> those further afield:</span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">I’d always wanted to ride in a canoe under the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pont_du_Gard" target="_blank">Pont du Gard</a>
and so we paddled our way south on the Gardon River for two hours until we
passed beneath the beautifully balanced and perfectly preserved three-level Roman
aqueduct bridge. Combining exercise and the outdoors, history and architecture,
made for a perfect afternoon.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Dinner was a family affair under the sheltering <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platanus" target="_blank">plane trees</a> of the main
square in the medieval town of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uz%C3%A8s" target="_blank">Uzès</a>. All throughout our meal, we enjoyed
watching the local children run around and around the cooling central fountain
(an ever-present anchor of Provençal towns, this one adorned with tiny white
tiles) as kids around the world will do. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mont_Ventoux" target="_blank">Mont Ventoux</a> (related to the French word for wind -- <i>venteux</i>), by far the highest mountain
south of the Alps and made famous as one of the most difficult climbs of the
Tour de France, can be seen for miles across the landscape of northern
Provence. We decided to tackle the massive bald mountain in our car rather than
on foot and it was probably a wise decision. The ascent and descent would have
taken a full day and the inches-deep scree that covered the final mile to the summit
was easy to observe on a windshield tour but would have wreaked havoc on our
feet.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">We had lunch at the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Night_Caf%C3%A9" target="_blank">Café de Nuit</a> on the Place du
Forum in Arles, the subject of Van Gogh's painting, Café Terrace at Night. It's
always been one of my favorites, in fact I carried a notebook with this image
on its cover all through college, and now I feel so much closer to the artist
and this particular work. There is nothing like being there for a lasting
emotional bond.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Nîmes and her</span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;"> Roman
theater were on our list as was lunch in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-R%C3%A9my-de-Provence" target="_blank">St. Remy</a> (birthplace of Nostradamus
and where Van Gogh spent a year in the Saint-Paul asylum). </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">We paid a call on Avignon whose internationally recognized
summer theater festival was in full swing. E</span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">very surface imaginable (city walls, street lamps, bus stops and church
doorways) was turned into a patchwork quilt of posters announcing the dramatic
offerings on stages all over town. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">About 15 years ago, I’d read an article about a young
Belgian couple that bravely opened a fine restaurant in the sleepy little town
of </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Eygalières,</span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;"> in the heart of Provence. I saved
the article for all these years and on this trip, dining there was one of our
“musts.” And so, we had a lovely dinner on the outdoor terrace at <a href="http://www.chezbru.com/" target="_blank">Maison Bru</a>,
and in addition to the poached egg with truffle butter appetizer, what I’ll
always remember is seeing the sous-chef slip out of a side door into the
garden, clip some fresh herbs and head back to the kitchen to continue cooking.
Talk about fresh... </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: white; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: small;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">There is a most unusual gallery in Les Baux de Provence. Under the
bauxite hilltop town are what are called <i><a href="http://www.carrieres-lumieres.com/fr/home" target="_blank">LesCarrièrres de Lumières</a></i> – the Quarries of Light. The walls of the cavernous,
45-foot high, interior spaces are filled with huge projections of the paintings
of Van Gogh and Gauguin, accompanied by fitting inspirational music. It sounds rather
strange but while unusual, it really works; the oversized reproductions make
you feel like you're inside the paintings themselves. As an added bonus, the
cool interior of the quarries was a welcome relief from the blazing sun
outside.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">I thought we knew Provence fairly well when we arrived, but we quickly
discovered that previous visits had barely scratched the surface. There was just
so much more to see. The two weeks of discovery we had before settling into Aix,
while so very satisfying, were still not enough to fully explore this
remarkable region. Every place we visited stirred up new questions about art,
architecture, history and language. We did our best to thoroughly read our
guidebooks and do Internet searches for the pieces that were missing but there
was just never enough time to learn all we wanted to know. About Van Gogh.
About Provence. About France, Europe and all the places we visited. Even with a
full year to ourselves, dedicated to nothing but seeing, experiencing and
learning, there is just never, ever enough time to complete our education.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: white;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #1f1f1f; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: small;">Pictures of our adventures: </span><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/" style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a></span></div>
</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Luberon, 84360 Mérindol, France43.790992 5.20969643.7680675 5.1702140000000005 43.813916500000005 5.249178tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-78465305721835461072012-08-15T08:02:00.000-07:002012-08-17T10:58:37.870-07:00Sensing Provence<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Helvetica Neue";
panose-1:2 0 5 3 0 0 0 2 0 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-2147483545 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
</div>
<div style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Helvetica Neue";
panose-1:2 0 5 3 0 0 0 2 0 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-2147483545 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><span style="font-size: small;">Having downed a huge glass of self-compassion to soften the departure
from the Alps, it took me very little
time to shift my thoughts from the chilly mountain air to the sunshine of Provence.
By the time our train reached St. Gervais, the rain had stopped and once we
boarded the TGV in Bellegarde bound for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avignon" target="_blank">Avignon</a>, the skies had fully cleared
and the bright Provençal sun had taken over. We picked up our rental car at the
train station, removed and then dumped all our warm layers of clothing into the
back seat and our spirits fully revived, headed deep into the south of France.</span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;">We
had two weeks in front of us to wander around the sun-blessed countryside
before settling down and moving into an apartment in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aix-en-Provence" target="_blank">Aix-en-Provence</a> for a
month while I took a French conversation course. We had a list that filled a
loose-leaf page of all the things we hoped to do and see in this lovely region
of the world. The only question was, where to start? The specifics of our
itinerary had hit the brick wall of planning for the TMB and we had few specifics
in place for the upcoming chunk of time. We could make it up as we went along but
there were too many must-dos on our list to leave enjoying Provence to whim. The
area is rich in potential for outdoor activities and we wanted to make sure we
took advantage of what was available – <i>en
profiter bien,</i> as the French like to say.</span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Over the course of two brief visits in
years gone by, the south of France had
gotten under my skin. Paris aside, Provence is by far my favorite corner of the
hexagon. It is a veritable feast for the senses – each and every one of them --
starting with sound. We treated ourselves for the first couple of days to a rural
chateau hotel northwest of Avignon in which to relax, do our planning and
finalize our route. I sat and did my Internet searches in the shade of a plane
tree with the buzzing chorus of <i>les
cigales</i> (cicadas) in the background. </span><span style="font-size: small;">In addition to the chirping song of summer tree
frogs and ocean waves breaking on the beach, it’s definitely my favorite sound
in nature. The cicada’s whirr is said to drive some to earplugs and
others to madness but it helped me sit back, enjoy the sounds of summer and map
out our stay in Provence.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The most pleasantly fragrant place we've visited by far is Provence,
without a doubt. Lavender, always one of my favorite flowers with its
intoxicating yet soothing fragrance and healing essential oil, has become a
familiar symbol of Provence. Its teeny tiny clustered blossoms so popular with butterflies
and bees can be found dotting the gardens surrounding farmhouses, adding its
gentle purple color to municipal flower displays in every town large and small
and spread across acres of straight-lined
rows of redolent blooms in
lavender farms. The cafe culture is alive and well in Provence, so in addition
to the ever-present aromatic lavender is the coffee scented air in the cool
shade under green awnings, another defining feature of Provence. Afternoon
shade is a necessity as the suns blazes fervently and it can easily be found
thanks to the proliferation of awning-sheltered cafes, all of them patronized
by locals sipping demitasse cups of strong, pungent coffee. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The tastes of
Provence were so different from those we’d sampled in the mountains. The hard,
nutty cow cheeses were now of the soft, herbal goat variety and preserved hams and beef morphed into
fresh vegetables and seafood. Butter disappeared thereby making way for everything
to be cooked and dressed in olive oil. Oversized capers and soft, ripe olives were
omnipresent delivery vehicles for the salty, vinegary mouthfuls they released.
I would almost always prefer a bowl brimming with such briny tidbits to one
filled with ice cream, so Provence and my palate were fast friends. We quickly learned
that 80% of the wine produced in the region is rosé and so our usual order of a
pichet of local white turned into a carafe of fruity rosé.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Although we had
yet to feel it, the fierce touch of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mistral_(wind)" target="_blank">le mistral</a> always threatened. The locals
continually refer to the almighty cold wind that whips south down the valleys
of the Rhone and Durance Rivers for days at a time even in summer, battering
everything in its wake. Since this visit to Provence would be extended, we were
sure to experience it in the coming weeks. In the meantime, we basked in the
sun, feeling its warmth and then escaping to the coolness of the shade once we
were cooked. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Provence is also a
feast for the eyes. I took a break from my trip organizing and walked for hours through the countryside
surrounding the chateau. It was hot but dry, like Arizona, and the rocky hills
in the distance reminded me of squatter versions of the mountains of Tucson. I
first passed through lush orchards of fig, pear, plum and peach trees, their
branches heavy with not-yet-ripened fruit. I next crossed miles of vineyards
with tiny, hard green grapes tucked beneath wide, flat leaves. In two more
months they would be fat, juicy and ready for harvest. Alongside the vineyards,
endless fields of sunflowers, or <i>tournesols</i> (literally, turn with the sun), </span><span style="font-size: small;">extended to the
horizon. The bright yellow flowers were fully developed and appeared to be
bashful in the afternoon light, turning their faces from the blinding light down
towards the shadowed earth. When still in their growth phase, the flowers’
faces follow the sun, turning towards it as it moves across the sky. But once
mature, the burning orb is too hot even for them and they shy away. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I looked up at the
sky, the deepest azure blue imaginable and completely free of clouds, closed my
eyes, felt the sun on my face and savored the sensations of Provence.</span> </div>
</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Aix-en-Provence, France43.529742 5.44742743.437644 5.2894985000000005 43.62184 5.6053555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-85903833361548709532012-08-13T02:33:00.003-07:002012-08-15T18:21:30.125-07:00Depression Sets In<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Arial;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520082689 -1073717157 41 0 66047 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Lucida Grande";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 4 5 2 2 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-520090897 1342218751 0 0 447 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-fareast-language:JA;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">It has felt at times that the past
ten months have been one long serial checkout. We’re forever unpacking,
repacking and having to say goodbye, yet again, to a special new place we’ve discovered
and to which we’ve grown attached. On the road again or back on the rails, we
wave goodbye, promising to return.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">So it was with leaving Chamonix, the
Alps and the terrific group of people with whom we’d shared the TMB. The
departure was difficult and left us feeling deflated and rather depressed. Our
fellow hikers left town first thing the following morning but we, long-term
travelers with more time to spare, gave ourselves an extra day in the mountains
before boarding a train. The day after the finish was cool and rainy, thereby exacerbating
the doldrums and we spent most of the day in our hotel room massaging sore
muscles and reminiscing about the hike. It was a bit like the morning after a
long-awaited, long-planned wedding. While the opportunity to relax and reflect
is to a certain extent welcomed, the after-party letdown and inevitable
disappointment that the anticipated event is over leaves you feeling somewhat flat.
</span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">We were so
sad that our amazing hiking experience was over and for much of that day I was overcome
with melancholia and felt close to tears. Adding to the post-TMB longing was
the fact that leaving Chamonix and heading for our
next stop, Provence, meant entering the final phase of our Gap Year. We were
about to start the beginning of the end and it left me in low spirits. Was it
possible that there were only two more months left in our sabbatical year? </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">The blues were threatening to win out and so we
did what we always do when we’re in the dumps: we headed out to eat. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">Our
final dinner in the magnificent village of Chamonix was at <i><a href="http://www.chamonet.com/food/restaurants/la-moraine-restaurant-chamonix.html" target="_blank">La Moraine</a></i>, the very same restaurant in which Joe and I had enjoyed
Thanksgiving dinner together in 1978 when I was a student in Tours. He came to
France to visit me and we took the train to the Alps to celebrate the American
holiday weekend. It was a miracle that we found the cozy little chalet restaurant
34 years later and were able to share another delicious meal there together.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">We
ignored the rain outside and chased away the gloom in our hearts by planning
our upcoming weeks in </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">the sun-drenched Van Gogh landscapes of Provence. By the
time we left dinner, a couple of aperitifs and a bottle of wine behind us, we felt
better about the next day’s departure. Safely back in our hotel room, we </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">watched the European
soccer championship between Italy and Spain and remarked that perhaps the country
that won would get to declare bankruptcy first (Italy was the eventual victor).
It was a good sign – our senses of humor were back.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: small;">The following morning, we repacked our bags, added
another checkout to our ever-growing list, said goodbye to Chamonix and boarded
the train. The snow-capped peaks of the Alps were now behind us and the
sunflowers and lavender of Provence awaited. Next stop, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avignon" target="_blank">Avignon</a>.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com1Chamonix, France45.923697 6.86943345.746975 6.553576 46.100418999999995 7.18529tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-80879798065881130522012-08-12T08:45:00.003-07:002012-08-15T18:11:07.923-07:00TMB: the Hike<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
The first morning of the mountain adventure we’d dreamed about for so long had finally dawned. The romantic images of gentle bucolic inclines through scenic Alpine meadows were suddenly very real rocky ascents rising defiantly in front of us daring us to climb. Our Grindelwald training hikes under our belts, our well broken in boots supporting our feet and our trekking poles at the ready, we felt reasonably confident as we started the ascent of what was billed as our “TMB practice hike.”<br />
<br />
A cable car deposited us up beyond the tree line on the northern side of the Chamonix valley. This essential initial time together allowed Eric to become familiar with our hiking abilities as individuals and as a group and helped us learn to listen to and trust him. It didn’t take long before we were hanging on his every word and took as gospel everything he said. If Eric predicted it would soon cool off, right after he spoke we felt a chilly breeze. If he suggested taking pictures from a certain promontory and we listened, we were assured of having photos with the absolute best backdrop. When Eric told us to don our foul weather cover, it was guaranteed to start spritzing in the subsequent minutes. As we learned over the course of the TMB, Eric clearly had a close personal relationship with the landscape and we were the very lucky beneficiaries.<br />
<br />
From the valley’s northern slope, we looked across the rooftops of Chamonix far below to the pristine white dome of Mont Blanc rising on the southern side, the imposing mountain that anchors the corners of France, Switzerland and Italy 15,000 feet in the sky. It was an incredible view. In contrast to the monumental were the small, vivid mountain rhododendron blossoms, their deep pinks and purples spilling down the incline and lining our trails. Our orientation day was graced by the visits of several sturdy <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_ibex" target="_blank">ibex</a>, members of the wild goat family with enormous backward curving horns (those of a male can reach lengths of more than three feet), standing watch on rocky ledges. As they do in early summer, one particularly diligent adolescent was dutifully scratching off his long white winter cover against the stiff, bristly branches of the scrub rhododendron thereby allowing his short, sandy summer coat to appear. We also spied the more elusive graceful and wiry <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois" target="_blank">chamois</a>, an entirely different animal of the goat-antelope species careering down a steep, rock-strewn slope. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_marmot" target="_blank">Alpine marmots</a> – adorable, oversized ground squirrels -- were our constant companions, always on the lookout beside their holes and sounding their repeated whistling alarms whenever we or any other danger approached. It was a deeply satisfying “I spy” day for witnessing wonderful wildlife.<br />
<br />
Our practice hike picnic alongside an ice-cold Alpine lake was a preview of exquisite open-air lunches to come, each a distinctive medley of magnificent local specialties. Our mountain-backdropped picnics included cheeses and hams, vegetables and fruits, crusty breads, tapenades, patés and always a different variety of buttery French cookie. We each carried in our daypack a share of the delectable communal lunch spread Eric would subsequently lay out each morning and did our best to even out the load.<br />
<br />
We were undeniably humbled by the first day’s exercise and gave in to exhaustion as we fell into bed knowing we had six long but sure-to-be exhilarating days ahead of us.<br />
<br />
The inauguration of the actual TMB hike took place high above the village of <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Les+Houches&hnear=Les+Houches,+Haute-Savoie,+Rhone-Alpes,+France&gl=us&t=m&z=12" target="_blank">Les Houches</a> where a cable car let us off at the Bellevue station in a lovely mountain meadow at the foot of a glacier. From there, we headed up and around the mountain and then through the Col du Tricot towards our first night’s destination, <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Les+Contamines-Montjoie&hnear=Les+Contamines-Montjoie,+Haute-Savoie,+Rhone-Alpes,+France&gl=us&t=m&z=11" target="_blank">Les Contamines-Montjoie</a>. Our first day was breathtaking and graced by a hiking trifecta: we felt the frosty spray of a fast-flowing mountain torrent and gushing waterfall, passed over a swollen, raging river on a bobbing suspension bridge and saw a picture perfect rainbow after a gentle rain. Our picnic lunch in an inviting green pasture studded with tiny white daisies was cut short by some additional drizzle, but the sun soon returned and we packed away our wet weather gear for the day. Much of the beautiful scenery was reminiscent of Colorado, from the shaded trail through fragrant pine forests and groves of rustling aspens to the snow-capped vistas across the valley. Eight miles and seven hours after starting, we reached Les Contamines, a small village nestled beside a noisily rushing stream with just enough time for much needed showers before dinner. It was a rewarding, scenic day with plenty of literal ups and downs, but the difficulty level was certainly manageable. I can do this, I thought, I’m definitely ready for more.<br />
<br />
As we would come to expect each evening after dinner, our muscles vigorously protested getting up from the table after having been given a chance to relax and then tighten during the meal. The ascent to our room was a difficult effort and a painful reminder of the miles covered during the day. On that first night, our room was three steep flights up and each step we took was successively more difficult. Eric had warned us that the weather report for the following day, reputed to be one of the most difficult of the TMB, was less than propitious and that we should make sure we were prepared. Like obedient schoolchildren, we laid out our foul weather layers, downed some extra-strength Tylenol and collapsed into bed.<br />
<br />
Eric, as always, was right. About everything. The Les Contamines to <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Les+Chapieux&hnear=Les+Chapieux,+Bourg-Saint-Maurice,+Savoie,+Rhone-Alpes,+France&t=m&z=15" target="_blank">Les Chapieux</a> leg of the TMB was wet, cold, strenuous and long. At one point mid-ascent up steep, interminable slick rock when my overworked lungs were burning a hole in my chest, I candidly asked myself as I bent over, yet again, to fully catch my breath, did we really pay good money to put ourselves through this agony? The morning had dawned under light cloud cover but by early afternoon, we were making our way through a delicate mist that soon turned to opaque fog as we reached the snow line. The terrain had gone from rocky to muddy to being under an increasingly thick cover of slushy snow over the course of just several hundred yards. The inevitable cold rain and biting wind soon followed with visibility reduced to seeing no more than the heels of our fellow hikers’ boots in front of us. And if ever we had been crazy enough to think that we could tackle the TMB independently, such delusional pretentions evaporated into the dense obscurity. The incline remained steep and all was eerily silent save the slushy sounds of one boot being planted in front of the other in the prints Eric had cut ahead of us in the snow. The fog continued to thicken as the rain pelted our slickers and soaked our pants and from the tail end of our string of hikers came the plaintive query: have we reached Nepal yet? It was perfect timing for a heartfelt giggle since the hiking hero in me was quickly fading and succumbing to the elements in lonely frustration. I was soaked and chilled to the bone, foul weather paraphernalia notwithstanding. I had to will myself every step of the way to continue advancing as we drew closer to the seemingly elusive summit.<br />
<br />
The fog was such that had we been on our own, we surely would have missed the trail markers and become hopelessly lost – a very dangerous proposition at over 8,000 feet. Even my ordinarily reliable sense of direction would have failed us and panic would have been the response of the day. My will was waning and my spirits were at rock bottom when the <a href="http://lerefugedubonhomme.free.fr/refuge.html" target="_blank">Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme</a> finally, slowly and miraculously appeared out of the mist just over the pass. The rustic wooden hut with a central pot-bellied stove was the oasis I’d visualized over the previous cold, wet hours and a mug of hot tea never tasted so good. The central room was filled with the cheerful energy of grateful, shivering hikers sipping steaming beverages and resting in various stages of undress on long wooden benches, their outer layers drying on clotheslines overhead. The atmosphere was festive and the room warm with no one anxious to head back out into the elements.<br />
<br />
After an hour with the warming effects of a couple doses of tea, Eric rounded us up, announced that the weather had cleared somewhat and that it was time to get back on the trail. We had a sharp descent of a couple hours ahead of us before we could enjoy the hot meal that awaited us at the <a href="http://www.refugelanova.com/Auberge_de_la_Nova/Accueil.html" target="_blank">Auberge de la Nova</a> in Les Chapieux. The fog had indeed lifted, the rain had slowed to a light drizzle and within a half hour of leaving the hut, patches of blue sky appeared and the valley below us became visible. I had put my lungs to the test on the grueling way up and while initially thrilled to finally be heading down, I was soon lamenting the descent as my knees began screaming in pain. Successfully negotiating the slick, muddy trails down the steep slope amid melting snow with my knees intact was clearly going to require some serious assistance from my trekking poles. So lean on them I did and managed to negotiate the balance of the trip down while minimizing my joint pain. Les Chapieux is a hamlet of just a handful of old stone buildings but to my spent body it looked like paradise. And our simple hiker’s inn with one toilet and one shower stall down the hall shared by the dozen guests on our floor was as comfortable as a five star resort. It provided a hearty dinner, glasses of wine and a comfortable bed – all we needed high in the hills for the short time we managed to stay awake.<br />
<br />
The subsequent days took us from Les Chapieux, France to <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Courmayeur,+Italy&ll=45.787637,7.051163&spn=0.259994,0.676346&hnear=Courmayeur,+Valle+D'aosta,+Aosta+Valley,+Italy&gl=us&t=m&z=11" target="_blank">Courmayeur, Italy</a> and then to Champex and <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Finhaut,+Switzerland&hnear=Finhaut,+Valais,+Switzerland&t=m&z=12" target="_blank">Finhaut, Switzerland</a>. While the journey became slightly less difficult -- perhaps because we had perfect weather or it could have been that we simply got used to the daily exertion -- it never got easy. As precarious as the day’s weather on the climb to the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme had been, the balance of our days on the TMB were scrumptious: skittering cotton candy clouds in a pure blue sky and just enough cool breeze to moderate the sun. As one must on a hike of the TMB’s magnitude, we had bought and carried with us adequate gear for the possibility of inclement weather. And while we were lucky to have had only two days when we needed it, we were happy our expenditures had been put to good use. <br />
<br />
Each morning we awoke to the familiar tick-tick-tick of trekking poles as hikers getting an early start passed by our open windows. I usually spent my first few waking moments wishing I could bypass the day’s daunting climb but my dogged spirit always won out (either that or I was too embarrassed to say I’d take the shuttle). We quickly acclimated to the rhythm of our days: on the trail by nine a.m. and at our destination by the late afternoon. Each morning started with the inevitable, strenuous uphill climb to a stunning, barren pass as we anticipated the lush scenery lurking over the crest and in the midst of which we would enjoy our lunch. We filled our water bottles and camelback bladders with pure glacier water from rushing streams and then had our midday open-air repasts in the company of whistling marmots, shrieking swallows and squeaking <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pipit" target="_blank">pipits</a> diving overhead with the eerie cracks of glaciers in the distance. We then embarked on the welcome dip into a new valley, always in the overarching presence of the sleeping Mont Blanc giant. I learned successfully to rely on my poles for support and my knees were forever grateful. <br />
<br />
One morning while trudging through a cow-filled pasture on our way up to that day’s pass, we stopped at a rustic dairy farm to watch the sharp, grassy flavored Beaufort cheese being made. The cows were milked in the pasture as they munched away and then the milk was brought to the dairy and dumped into a gargantuan copper pot. From inside the damp cheese shed whose nutty, moldy aroma was most pleasant, Eric bought a sizeable chunk from an even bigger cheese wheel that we demolished as part of our lunch that day. He always surprised us with a new local specialty, like the delicious Beaufort, but I drew the line at lardo, an Aosta Valley charcuterie made of fatback cured with herbs. I decided to pass on the Italian delicacy that looked like a pasty white fruit roll-up made of pure Crisco shortening.<br />
<br />
The trail took us past sheep and goats grazing in the meadows, their bells ever-tinkling, the goats ever-bleating and the sheep always curious. Eric pointed out a hikers’ inn perched dizzyingly high between two glaciers overlooking the moraine. We delighted in mountain glens splendidly carpeted with wildflowers: gentian violets, Queen Anne’s lace (I’d never before seen the lovely lavender-colored variety), alpine crocuses, wild thyme, tiny marguerite daisies and magnificent lupine. We came across a dozen chamois sprinting over an outlying snowfield. They generally travel in herds and one by one they nimbly negotiated the steep, slippery slope with grace and speed. We trekked through polite Swiss villages filled with chalets of arcadian charm and window boxes spilling over with an abundance of pink and red geraniums. I took deep cleansing breaths of the mountain air and did my best to snap mental photos in addition to those we took with the camera to hold onto the priceless images for as long as I could.<br />
<br />
Every day we rejoiced in the luck of having Eric as our guide. He was one cool, interesting dude who knew everything about the terrain, the flora and the fauna and he had a sixth sense for determining just the right pace at which to lead us and when we needed a break. The panoramic vistas that came into view as we made our final ascent and passed back into France through the Col de Balme from Switzerland were some of the prettiest of the journey. The Chamonix valley, this time from the eastern perspective, was lined with majestic glaciers and jagged peaks and we were able to glimpse the village of Le Tour in miniature in the distance at what would be our journey’s end. We asked Eric if he was happy to soon be heading home after his extended “business trip” in the Alps. When he nodded, I observed that it certainly beat those I had been accustomed to making to Dallas or Detroit.<br />
<br />
Our final afternoon on the TMB was spent descending across above-the-tree line meadows and then through delicate, undulating aspen woods. At times, the aerobic ascents had just about killed me but I experienced little trouble (save some painful wear and tear on a sore knee the second day) as long as my reliable trekking poles were there to support me. On the other hand, a couple of our fellow hikers were like rugged mountain goats going up without much effort but finding the extended descents more difficult. In fact, about halfway down to Le Tour, one of our comrades opted to take the gondola down to the finish line rather than further destroy already ravaged knees. Joe, as usual, emerged from the undertaking unscathed, athlete supreme that he be. And while every big and little muscle in my body ached, the only lingering injury I sustained was a bit of painful sun poisoning on my lower lip (although it will take my poor roughened heels and blistered, calloused feet many months to fully recover).<br />
<br />
Over the course of seven days of communal hiking, the eight of us developed a special bond. We’d completed a difficult physical challenge as a team -- a bit like going through boot camp together -- and spent all of our waking hours ensemble. Sharing a final round of celebratory drinks on a cafe terrace at the trailhead in Le Tour, we toasted each other for what we’d accomplished and recounted our favorite moments of the TMB (in addition to the finish!).<br />
<br />
The Tour du Mont Blanc was magnificent and Joe and I had a blast. Being outdoors in the presence of such unbridled, unspoiled nature was a magnificent, humbling experience and reminded us of just how small and insignificant we really are when it comes to the wilderness. We humans are merely guests passing through -- just part of the plan and not really in charge, try as we might. We need to acquiesce to nature and not the other way around, because as Eric liked to remind us, the mountains will always be the better competitors.<br />
<br />
Pictures of our adventures: <a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</a><br />
</div>
</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Chamonix, France45.923697 6.86943345.746975 6.553576 46.100418999999995 7.18529tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-80145206168764117722012-08-05T06:25:00.002-07:002012-08-06T11:07:45.448-07:00TMB: the Overview<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tour_du_Mont_Blanc" style="font-family: Courier;" target="_blank">The Tour du Mont Blanc</a><span style="font-family: Courier;">, affectionately
known to its devotees as the TMB, is one of the world's classic long-distance footpaths.
It was a capstone event on our itinerary that provided us with a pinnacle adventure
to anticipate and there is no doubt that the TMB will endure as one of the
highlights of our year. Experiencing the alpine wilderness and being in the
presence of the dramatic ice-capped peaks was the sugary icing on our
sabbatical year cake.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The numbers: In seven days we hiked 75
miles around Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps at 15,770 feet, survived elevation
gains and losses of over 36,000 feet, crossed through three countries with six
companions and completed one magnificent hike. The circular path took us from
village to village, ascending through flower-filled meadows and then up
precipitously to barren mountain passes. It wound its way through vertiginous scree-strewn
elevations and then descended through quaint hamlets into green valleys overlooked
by gigantic glaciers in France, Italy and Switzerland. The trail begins in the
<a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Chamonix+Valley&fb=1&gl=us&hq=Valley&hnear=0x47894c062dfe2ee7:0x408ab2ae4baa380,Chamonix,+France&cid=0,0,13707242712690022876&t=m&z=16&iwloc=A" target="_blank">Chamonix Valley</a> and then traces its way through its international neighbors -- the
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Ferret" target="_blank">Val Ferret</a> in Italy and the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Trient_valley.jpg" target="_blank">Trient Valley</a> in Switzerland. The views are spectacular,
the effort substantial and the flora and fauna unforgettable. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;">The complete 105-mile TMB requires a
commitment of 10 days.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">We</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;"> undertook a slightly abbreviated version of the
full-length hike with the “less-interesting legs,” which follow paved roads, traveled
in comfortable shuttles into which we collapsed after reaching the trail’s waypoints.
</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Weather
conditions around Mont Blanc can shift in a matter of minutes from punishing
sun to wet snow and whipping winds, even in the middle of summer.</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">It was for these very reasons – the fickle Alpine
weather and the sheer force of nature -- that we opted for a guided TMB
excursion with <a href="http://www.boundlessjourneys.com/" target="_blank">Boundless Journeys</a>, an adventure outfitter based in Stowe,
Vermont. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;">They
provide the food, make all necessary arrangements and reserve accommodations so
that all hikers have to worry about is being properly equipped, putting one
foot in front of the other and marveling at the breathtaking scenery. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The Boundless Journeys
itinerary starts high above the village of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Houches" target="_blank">Les Houches</a>, just down the road and
west of Chamonix, and zigzags counterclockwise through France and a sharp
ascent to the <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Col+de+la+Croix-du-Bonhomme&hq=Col+de+la+Croix-du-Bonhomme&radius=15000&t=m&z=16" target="_blank">Col de la Croix-du-Bonhomme</a> until Italy comes into view at the
next pass, the <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Col+de+la+Seigne,+73700+Bourg-Saint-Maurice,+Savoie,+Rhone-Alpes,+France&hl=en&geocode=FfAWugIdgMJnAA&hnear=Col+de+la+Seigne&t=m&z=15" target="_blank">Col de la Seigne</a>. The circuit then follows the <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Vallon+de+la+L%C3%A9e+Blanche&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=45.469251,6.908276&spn=0.011662,0.018711&hq=Vallon+de+la+L%C3%A9e+Blanche&radius=15000&t=m&z=16&iwloc=A" target="_blank">Vallon de la Lée Blanche</a></span> flats until
it reaches the fashionable ski town of Courmayeur before rising in
Switzerland's Val Ferret and over the pass. After long stretches of lofty
snowfields, the trail descends sharply and then climbs back up to the lake
resort of Champex. Subsequent inclines and declines get closer together until the
route passes through the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Col_de_la_Forclaz" target="_blank">Col de la Forclaz</a> and then the <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Col+du+Balme&hq=Col+du+Balme&t=m&z=15" target="_blank">Col du Balme</a> for the
final descent back into France and down to Chamonix. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;">A support van picks up
your bags every morning, except for daypacks stuffed with lunch, daily
provisions and extra layers of clothing, and meets you each evening at that
day’s destination.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our formal TMB program was inaugurated at <a href="http://www.hotel-oustalet.com/hotel_gb.htm" target="_blank">L’Oustalet</a>, our comfortably
rustic Chamonix inn, with drinks on the lawn. Our tall, handsome guide and quintessential
outdoorsman, Eric, met us with the understated enthusiasm we would come to
expect from him. As our fellow hikers materialized one by one, we sized each
other up to see where we fell on the relative fitness scale. I have to admit
that in the days leading up to the excursion, I was somewhat anxious. Will our
companions for a week of intense trekking be older or younger than us? Will they
be less or more in shape? Will we see their hard-body physiques and realize
we’re in over our hiking heads? As it turned out, our abilities, while not
identical, were definitely compatible and somewhat more importantly, our senses
of humor were in synch. </span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The fuzzy silhouettes of yet-unknown fellow hikers we’d imagined had now
materialized as real people:</span><span style="font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Courier;"> a 20-something Australian couple who work for the police department
in Canberra, a research librarian from New York City who works for the NY Post
and her real estate entrepreneur husband, a financial planning attorney from
Pawtucket, Rhode Island and our fantastic French guide, a native of Chamonix. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">It looked like the weeklong adventure ahead was not
only going to be physical but sociable as well with an affable ensemble of
eight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p>
</o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures of our adventures:</span><span style="color: #1f1f1f; font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Courier; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><br clear="all" style="mso-special-character: line-break; page-break-before: always;" />
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>
Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com030-52 Rue de l'Hôtel de ville, 74400 Chamonix, France45.923697 6.86943344.518548499999994 4.3425775 47.3288455 9.3962885tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-57808028264500125472012-07-29T11:58:00.002-07:002012-07-31T09:55:12.846-07:00Our Return to the Promised Land<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">I had one of those unforgettable existential moments
soon after we arrived in France -- a flash of clarity so pure that my life raced
in front of my eyes and I was in harmony with all. Those experiences are a
blessing, come without warning and leave me with such a sense of peace.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">We had arrived in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamonix" target="_blank">Chamonix</a>, alfresco mecca
extraordinaire. The quintessential sports town, even more so than Grindelwald
in terms of outward appearance, it is the Moab or Vail or Tahoe of France. Every
other retail space houses an outdoor outfitter -- Northface, Marmot, Billabong
Columbia, Quechua, Quicksilver – and most of those walking through town were
dressed for mountain pursuits. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">We checked into one of those nondescript
across-from-the-train-station hotels, the <a href="http://www.langleyhotels.eu/en-us/hotels/summerhotels/gustavia/introduction.aspx" target="_blank">Langley-Gustavia</a>, with indoor-outdoor
carpet in hallways pervaded by the distinctive smell of the particular disinfectant
used in all French hotels. Okay, not the most romantic start to our return to
France, but we were surrounded by the French Alps and weren’t complaining. I’d
thought when we’d entered Switzerland eight days prior that I’d be back to loosening
that sluggish American jaw of mine with the language of kings but we heard not
a word of French in the Grindelwald valley since it was square in the middle of
the German-speaking Berner Oberland. So I was thrilled when, despite the
pedestrian nature of our accommodations, I was once again hearing the dulcet
tones of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">le français</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">For our first dinner back in The Promised Land, we
found a little restaurant around the corner called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Flambée</i>. The menu was filled was mouth-wateringly familiar
choices. There were at least dozen items on the menu I could have selected – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">poulet a la crème avec champignons</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">la salade forestière</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">la raclette à l’ancienne</i> -- but settled on
a few of my favorites: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">soupe à l’oignon</i>,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> une salade de chèvre chaud</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">un pichet</i> of crisp Haute-Savoie white wine.
As the waitress came to take our order, the wistful strains of Joni Mitchell’s classic,
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Both Sides Now,</i> filled the chalet
bistro. The friendly French of our <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">serveuse</i>,
the comfortable ease with which we responded and the backdrop of the timeless
lyrics filled me with a serenity that whispered, all that has happened in your
life has brought you to this satisfying moment. While I’ve had my share of disappointments,
anxieties and struggles, all that flickered past in that instant were the
triumphs, the joys and the contentment of my life: “It’s life’s illusions I
recall...” The accumulation of every step I’d ever taken and every decision I’d
ever made had brought me to sitting across from Joe having a cozy dinner in the
boundless Chamonix valley. If I’d changed any of the details of my life along
the way, this particular crystalline moment might never have happened. Perhaps
it’s the optimist in me, perhaps it’s simply that I relish my life, or perhaps
it’s that my now mature self (read: old) </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">looks back and remembers only the good things about
clouds, love and life. Reflection is vital, it’s all-important sometimes, but
all we really have is the present of the Buddhists – the clarity of the here
and now. For me, at that moment, my present included being back in France, my private
promised land, for the balance of our year, having dinner with Joe and all was right
in my world.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures
of our adventures:</span><span style="color: #1f1f1f; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Courier; text-decoration: none;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
</div>Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Chamonix, France45.923697 6.86943345.746975 6.553576 46.100418999999995 7.18529tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-66687798090925031782012-07-26T05:49:00.002-07:002012-07-29T04:24:46.798-07:00On Language<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">Is it possible to overstate the importance of
language in forging friendships across borders? I don’t think so.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">The trip from Grindelwald to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamonix" target="_blank">Chamonix</a> required
five different trains and one bus. As the crow flies, the distance isn’t that far,
but getting through the Alps can be a multi-legged, many-houred proposition. On
one of the middle trains, we watched as a Japanese couple took their places
across from a Swiss gentleman in the seats diagonal to ours. While </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">helping them with their luggage, he began a
conversation in Japanese. The look of pure, unadulterated joy on the couple’s
faces lit up the train. They were on their own, so far from home, and the
serendipity of having selected seats next to someone who spoke their language
was priceless. Animated conversation among the fast friends continued for the
half hour the Swiss gentleman was seated across from them. He pointed out features
of the surrounding peaks as our train proceeded down the valley. They laughed
and smiled together, heads nodding and smiles widening as I imagined the talk
turning to families, travel and Japan. As the train slowed for the gentleman’s
stop, they exchanged cards and with hands at their sides, gave each other the
quick bows of goodbye. It was a heartening and heartwarming scene.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">During
our stay in Grindelwald, we</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> met a couple that lived outside Dresden in the former East Germany who
spoke passable English. They told us that nowadays, all schoolchildren are
taught English from an early age but that they hadn’t taken it up until they
were adults; Russian had been the requirement when they were growing up. It
took me aback at first, but then I understood that
of course that’s the language they were taught. The subjugators demanded that
the subjugated learn their language – a sweeping power play, most certainly. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Language is such a delicate art. We’ve been amused on occasion by the charming
use of English by some of the people we’ve encountered. I overheard an Italian
traveler in Rome triumphantly exclaim, </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">“The bull has already entered in the china store,”
and our guide in Dubrovnik, after she asked us if we were familiar with an anecdote
she’d shared about St. Blaize asked, “Is that bell not ringing?” Such endearing
errors highlight the delicate nature of language and translations but should
never inhibit us from giving another language our best efforts. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Learning foreign languages has always helped me
listen to English so much more carefully and pay close attention to all the
expressions and constructions that might be a bit difficult for non-native
speakers to understand.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Ah,
languages – we’ll soon be back in the land of the quintessential romance
language – my beloved French. I may at times speak it like a bull that’s entered
the china store, but <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">le français</i> has
always helped keep my bell ringing.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;"></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures
of our adventures:<b style="color: #1f1f1f;"> </b></span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink" style="font-weight: bold;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Courier; text-decoration: none;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
</span><br />
<div>
<b><span style="font-family: Courier;"><br /></span></b></div>
</div>Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Chamonix, France45.923697 6.86943345.746975 6.553576 46.100418999999995 7.18529tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-21443593288758023102012-07-24T23:01:00.003-07:002012-07-25T09:05:25.228-07:00Alpine Mountain High<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">When we arrived in <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Grindelwald&hnear=Grindelwald,+Canton+of+Bern,+Switzerland&gl=us&t=m&z=11" target="_blank">Grindelwald</a>, we called home and were greeted
with my Dad’s familiar refrain: “Where in the world are you these days?” We let
him know we were high in the mountains of Switzerland for just over a week and
thought, “Are we crazy to have come to this country for a full eight days –
where bleeding money is the principal pastime of tourists?” Even thinking about
sticking to a budget in Switzerland </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">was
a fool’s errand, but we were anxious to hike and so there we were. The Swiss
franc (no, Switzerland is not and never has been on the euro), currently valued
at just over a dollar, is stronger than ever. Prices were jaw-droppingly high
(a good 30% more than in the rest of Europe) but at a certain point, we decided
to just eat and drink less and go with the exchange-rate flow rather than
obsess about our expenditures and ruin our stay. Because access to many of the
most beautiful, hiking trails required an initial ascent in a cable car or
gondola, we purchased <a href="http://www.myswissalps.com/swissrailpasses.asp?lang=EN" target="_blank">six-day unlimited</a> transportation passes for the price of
a hotel room for two weeks in Greece. Determined to get our money’s worth, we
were out and about every day taking every chairlift, train and ascension
contrivance covered by our pass to explore the Grindelwald valley fully.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">More than comfortable with
traversing mountain landscapes on gondolas and chair lifts for skiing, doing so
across the green countryside of summer was a completely new experience. As in
winter, we departed each morning with our trusty trail map in hand, charted our
course and then rather than skiing down the slopes, hiked from the top of one
lift across and over the terrain to the base of the next. We explored both
sides of the valley including a trip up the Grindelwald First cable car to a
lateral path along a ridge that brought us up to the </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bachalpsee" target="_blank">Bachalpsee</a></span></i><span style="font-family: Courier;">, a lovely alpine lake </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">well above the tree line. Trekking
across the high meadows crisscrossed every hundred yards or so by gushing
streams of melted snow so reminded me of walking the fells in the Lake District
in England. The rugged, rocky landscape combined sharp crags with rolling
slopes of thick, tufted grass pitted with hollows such that twisting an ankle
in a sudden soft spot was always a fear. Our scenic lift rides took us to the
mountain villages of </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wengen" target="_blank">Wengen</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%BCrren" target="_blank">Mürren</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lauterbrunnen" target="_blank">Lauterbrunnen </a>where endless trails were
within constant sight of waterfalls and earshot of the thunder of summer </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">avalanches</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">We took a particularly dramatic
hike along the narrow edge of a mountain ravine that overlooked the glacier
below. After an hour’s ascent, the weather changed in the blink of an eye and
with thunder rumbling in the distance, we immediately turned on our heels and did
an about-face. The rain was torrential and not having donned any foul weather
gear, within minutes we were soaked by a drenching squall. Water ran down our
legs and into our hiking boots, turning our socks into sodden sponges. We
squished and squeaked our way back to the trailhead and just as we made it to
the gondola hut, the lightening flashed above us. It was petrifying to have our
trek over the glacier</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> thwarted by a thunderstorm
but it taught us an enduring lesson – when dealing with the outdoors, Mother
Nature always wins.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">We reveled daily in the summer side of the Grindelwald playground.
The gondolas and cable cars are the same as those that operate in winter and as
always, we searched for opportune trails, but our hiking boots were a lot less
painful than our ski boots and our essential trekking sticks replaced our
winter ski poles. The outdoor entrepreneurs have turned what was previously a
four-month ski season into a year-round outdoor wonderland and we couldn’t have
been happier that they had. On one evening trip deep into the valley for an
authentic Swiss cheese fondue at a restaurant recommended by our hotel
proprietor, we found ourselves looking over the spot where the Wetterhorn lift,
the <a href="http://www.verkehrshaus.ch/index.cfm?srv=cms&rub=628&id=101561" target="_blank">world’s first aerial cable car</a>, started operating in 1908. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">A replica of the original wooden cabin now stands
next to the Hotel Wetterhorn where the original lower station of the lift once
stood and shuttled skiers and climbers towards the summit. Sadly, the
Wetterhorn lift functioning ceased when World War I broke out and its operation
has never resumed.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 13.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">The flagship
excursion of a trip to Grindelwald is the 11,400-foot ascent to the </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jungfraujoch" target="_blank">Jungfraujoch</a>,</span></i><span style="font-family: Courier;"> the permanently snowed in </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">saddle between the Mönch and Jungfrau peaks. We decided
to forego yet a few more meals to pay the supplement for this amazing train
ride. The cog railway </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">climbs rapidly from the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kleine_Scheidegg" target="_blank">Kleine Scheidegg</a> pass before
plunging into the mountain face of solid rock and continuing for seven long miles
inside the Eiger and Mönch before eventually emerging at </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">the
highest train station in Europe</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">. What makes the
claustrophobic journey all the more incredible is that work on this
breathtaking engineering marvel was initiated so long ago -- in the late 1800s
– and lasted for 16 years</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">. As dark as it was in the train tunnel, when we emerged the
light was dazzling. The brilliant summer sun reflecting off every snow-covered
surface around us was blinding. Once we donned our sunglasses and our eyesight
was restored, we realized that we were not alone; it appeared that the entire
populations of India, Pakistan and Japan were there with us at 12,000 feet
above sea level. As we’d learned from our hotel owner, </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Switzerland
is the foreign country pictured most often as a backdrop in Bollywood blockbusters
such that as a vacation destination it has become the stuff of dreams for
Indians and Pakistanis. Specially</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> packaged excursions shuttle
entire families to the Bernese Oberland region for the complete movie
experience, including lunch at the <a href="http://www.gletscherrestaurant.ch/english/bollywood_en.html" target="_blank">“Bollywood” restaurant</a> at the top of the
Jungfraujoch. In a similar manner, the area is a popular destination for
packaged tours from Japan. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The Grindelwald area of the Swiss Alps is a huge draw for Japanese tourists,
many of whom make the pilgrimage to mountains they know from the children's
classic, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Heidi</i>, and the beloved
musical, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Sound of Music</i>. One Japanese
woman I spoke to shared with me, “They’re always marketing the romantic image
of Switzerland wherever you go. Television ads talk about the clean Swiss air
and travel agent windows are filled with pictures of snow-covered peaks and
edelweiss.” </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The advertising must work and someone is making an awful lot of
money judging by the hundreds of Japanese with whom we shared the trains. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Often the only
non-Asian in the rail cars, we were astounded when information about upcoming
stops was announced in German, English and then in Japanese.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">In an effort to flee the stifling crowds at the Jungfraujoch station to
view the magnificent vistas </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">with a touch of solitude, we hiked close to an hour up and across the vast
glacial snowfields to the </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%B6nchsjoch_Hut" target="_blank">Mönchjoch mountain hut</a>.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">We’d left temperatures
in the high 70s in Grindelwald but despite the brilliant sun, once we set off across
the plateau, the icy winds whipping through the pass brought the numbers down
into the 40s. The views across the </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Aletsch Glacier, at 15 miles the longest river of
ice in the Alps, were incredible and we just couldn’t believe the views we were
experiencing. What magnificence, what grandeur, what oh-my-goodness splendor.
Much-appreciated, belly-warming soup and tea helped thaw our chilly selves such
that we were able to head back across the snow to Bollywood central and </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">up the elevator that
took us to the Sphinx weather observation tower and panoramic terrace. We were
indeed on top of the world. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Every evening after strenuous daily hikes,
we were happy to return to the <a href="http://www.hotel-lauberhorn.ch/sites/hotel-intro-d.html" target="_blank">Hotel Lauberhorn</a> and our cozy duvets in our room
with a view. Our hosts and their staff were always so generous with
recommendations for our outdoor excursions for the following day; we were
living with native resident experts on the entire valley. One evening, we opted
into a very reasonably priced BBQ they cooked and served on the outdoor patio
and every morning, we were greeted with a superb morning meal. The hotel served
some of the freshest, most scrumptious breakfasts we had on our journey:
homemade muesli thick with fresh fruits, crusty whole wheat breads and
croissants served with sweet butter and homemade jams, rich coffee and an
endless variety of loose leaf teas and a nice selection of Swiss cheeses presented
on a thick plank of cedar. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">After eight days in Switzerland, we really did hate to leave, but since
our wallets had thinned considerably and my beloved France, still in the Alps,
was our next destination, we once again hit the rails and waved goodbye to
Grindelwald.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;"></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures
of our adventures:</span><span style="color: #1f1f1f; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Courier; text-decoration: none;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Grindelwald, Switzerland46.6248928 8.030958646.537653299999995 7.8730301 46.7121323 8.1888871tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-47967130091019470482012-07-19T02:10:00.004-07:002012-07-19T08:51:03.437-07:00I Did Go Back (and Up and Down) Again<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">In life-before-our-Gap-Year,
there were weeks of days that passed by and I can’t recall the particulars of
even a single one – not one tiny detail, not one single image. But the memory
of the day I hiked from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grindelwald" target="_blank">Grindelwald</a>, Switzerland to the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kleine_Scheidegg" target="_blank">Kleine Scheidegg</a> pass as
a solo backpacker in July 1977 is as crystal clear as the blue sky under which
I made the 14-mile round-trip trek. It was my first real hike ever and I can conjure
up every detail. I remember what I wore (clumsy shoes that stood in for hiking
boots, blue knee socks, cotton navy shorts and a flowered blouse I’d made),
what I ate (yogurt, cheese and a hunk of bread), what I heard (the bleating of
goats and the clanking of cowbells), what I saw (the most beautiful valley and
dramatic snow-covered peaks) and most of all, how I felt (exhilarated).</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> I’d spent a mere ten
hours in the Grindelwald valley 35 years ago, yet the memory was indelibly vivid
for each and every one of my senses. When Joe and I undertook the very same
hike as a duo, I was elated to find that the often-distorting lens of nostalgia
had neither magnified the location’s beauty nor exaggerated the thrill of
accomplishment. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">What a difference a day makes. Sweltering in the upper
80s heat when we left chaotic Turkey, we were soon shivering in the cold
drizzle of pastoral Switzerland with temperatures in the 50s. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The blistering sun of the Mediterranean and the recurring
calls to prayer were now behind us -- </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">no more olives, no more eggplant and
no more southern warmth. We were in the land of bread, cheese, muesli and </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">brisk but polite demeanors </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">-- talk about
contrasts! </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Flying from and to
countries not part of the European Union meant suffering through interminable
lines after arriving in </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Basel and the dour officials at passport control. Is a
genetic inability to smile a job requirement for becoming a border control
officer – especially in Switzerland? (Although we encountered them just once,
the passport officials in Turkey managed to sneak in an unsanctioned grin as
they inspected our paperwork.) After an uneventful train ride to Interlaken
where we transferred to the red, wooden-benched cog railway that carried us well
up into the valley, we arrived in Grindelwald in thick fog and mood-dampening
rain. I saw a pair of 20-something backpackers arrive on the train with us and
wondered if their soon-to-be-made memories of the village and the surrounding
mountains would be as indelible as mine. Would they return some years in the
distant future, as I have, to relive them?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Beni, extreme sports aficionado and owner, with his
equally enthusiastic about the outdoors wife Connie, of the <a href="http://www.hotel-lauberhorn.ch/" target="_blank">Hotel Lauberhorn</a>, picked
us up at the tourist office and drove us in his van about a mile out of town to
our home for the next eight days. The conditions were so dismal and the cloud
cover so thick, that we could have been in Kentucky for all we knew with nary
an Alp in sight. We were so thoroughly exhausted after our long day of traveling
and temporarily dismayed by the weather that we just crashed and slept like
babies under our fluffy Swiss duvets. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">The sun woke us up the next morning and we nearly fell
out of our platform bed when we turned and saw the spectacular north face of
the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eiger" target="_blank">Eiger </a>staring in at us through the sliding glass doors of our room. This
magnificent peak had been hiding behind the clouds on our arrival but now
filled the view from our little chalet dorm. Until that startling morning
moment, the sightlines from our room in the Hotel Bel Soggiorno Taormina,
Sicily over Mount Etna in the distance had topped our list of most beautiful
views, but the snow-topped Eiger peering into our bedroom immediately bumped
the Hotel Lauberhorn up into the top slot. The mountain’s rugged magnitude was not
only magnificent but humbling as well as we sat in awe on our little balcony. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">There was little time for relaxation in Grindelwald. Our
hotel owners were off to hang glide and mountain bike for the day and we were determined
to start hiking in earnest to prepare for the six-day <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tour_du_Mont_Blanc" target="_blank">Tour du Mont Blanc</a> we
would undertake the following week. My reconstituted </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Kleine Scheidegg hike of 1977, the centerpiece of our visit to Switzerland
and this time to be experienced with Joe, was a perfect replica of what I’d remembered
for oh-so-many years. We first made our way down to the base of the valley in
Grund, crossed the bridge over the pale green chalky river that thundered down towards
Interlaken and then started the 4,000-foot relentless climb up, up and then further
up to the pass (the Swiss don’t believe in switchbacks, preferring to head
straight up to the destination at hand). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">There’s hiking and
then there’s “wow” hiking, where each and every view is followed by an
exclamation of awe. From the tiniest little flower to the rugged vistas of the
encircling mountains, our ascent to the Kleine Scheidegg was without a doubt, “wow”
hiking at its best and I had to remind myself to breathe and to just put one
foot in front of the other as we took in the scenery. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">An
abundance</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">
of Alpine wildflower fields filled with a riot of colors -- yellow buttercups,
purple asters, pink campions and blue gentians –
embellished the way. How does nature manage to paint the landscape so
perfectly, I though, with just the right mix of delicate and vivid colors? As
we followed the trail across farm after farm, the only sounds on the winds were
the deep clangs from the huge Swiss bells hung on the necks of munching cows (it’s
astounding how much racket they make when all they’re doing is eating) and the wind
chime tinkles of the little bells dangling from bearded goats. Unlike being taken
through a perfectly orchestrated pastiche of a distant paradise at
Disneyworld’s Epcot, this mountain paradise was very real with all the sights,
sounds and smells that go along with the reality of Switzerland. We were in an
Alpine wonderland and it was glorious. At long last and when my lungs were just
about to give up on working so hard, patches of snow and fields of ice from
which ice-cold streams sprouted crossed our path, signaling our final approach
to the crest. The hike was billed as a four-hour trek, but we’d made it to the Kleine Scheidegg ridge about a half hour earlier
than we’d expected. There we were at the snow line, looking straight up at the
big boy triumvirate, all commanding attention in an imposing row: </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">the </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1654681899">Eiger</a></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eiger" target="_blank"> </a>(13,025 feet), the </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1654681907">Mönch</a></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%B6nch" target="_blank"> </a>(13,448 feet)
and the </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1654681903">Jungfrau</a></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jungfrau" target="_blank"> </a>(13,642 feet)</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">. Wow!</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">After devouring some wursts on the terrace looking over the western-facing
side of the pass across the chasm to the village of </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Mürren suspended
precipitously on a mountain terrace, we started our three-hour descent down to
Grindelwald. Practically crawling by the time we arrived back at the Hotel
Lauberhorn, we had yet to resolve the debate about which had been more
difficult: going up or coming down. The ascent was a killer for our aerobic
capacity but the descent wreaked havoc on our knees and our thighs. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">While I’d hardly been in great hiking shape at 21
in 1977, I was, after all, just a kid with 21-year-old lungs and 21-year-old
muscles and no matter what shape I was in at 56, my body parts were 56-years-old
with plenty of years of wear and tear. At the end of our trek, we were feeling
every single step we’d taken and were so exhausted and sore that we couldn’t imagine
why anyone would ever want to do anything but sleep. I lay in bed unable to
move as the result of having realized a dream that had lain dormant for 35 years;
I fell asleep immediately and slept about as soundly as I ever had.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">There are no words to describe the
reality of reanimating a place that existed for so long as a cherished memory,
having it come alive once again, and sharing it with my beloved. Yes, time can so
often </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">warp
memory but in the case of my Grindelwald hike, it certainly had not. I had fallen in love with the valley on my very first
date 35 years ago and now that I had returned, I loved her all the more. Yes, I
had gone back and yes, it was better than ever.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures
of our adventures:<b style="color: #1f1f1f;"> </b></span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink" style="font-weight: bold;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Courier; text-decoration: none;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
</span></div>Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Grindelwald, Switzerland46.6248928 8.030958646.537653299999995 7.8730301 46.7121323 8.1888871tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-62863410154696830152012-07-13T11:32:00.001-07:002012-07-17T05:07:52.485-07:00Our Ephesian Revelations<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">The concluding leg of our journey to
Turkey took us via the previously-unknown-to-us, Pegasus Airlines (Joe said
fine, as long as its name isn’t Icarus), to the spanking new Izmir airport. Our
final destination was Ephesus, the archeological site about an hour further
south along the Aegean coast of Asia Minor. We were aware that it housed the
ruins of the 550 BC Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient
World, but beyond that, we knew little of what we were about to find. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">We arrived at our hotel in <a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Kusadasi" target="_blank">Kusadasi</a>,
a few miles outside Ephesus, just in time for dinner. As genuine and serene as the
Kelebek Hotel in Cappadocia was, the <a href="http://www.tatliseshotel.com/" target="_blank">Hotel Tatlises</a> was not: it was the epitome
of factory tourism at its worst. Our check-in coincided with that of the
passengers of no fewer than six air-conditioned coaches, which pulled up and
disgorged waves of international tourists, each bus representing a different
country. Needless to say, check-in took forever. The place was evidently
successful catering to and luring travelers looking for a bargain basement deal
and for good reason. There was an enormous patio the size of a football field on
which meals were served and we joined the crowds for the endless dinner buffet once
we learned that our evening meal was included in our room rate. We enjoyed
decent Turkish food but suffered through bad ‘80s music (who can enjoy stuffed
grape leaves and baklava while listening to a Muzak version of “Get Outta My
Dreams and Into My Car?”) while sitting on stained white-on-white faux-satin
slipcovered banquet chairs. It was like being at a wedding with no bride, no
groom and not a soul we knew. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our one unfortunate night
of impersonal, mass-produced travel behind us, we proceeded to Ephesus</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">, where we had much
to learn. We’d done some reading overnight and discovered that the ancient
Greek city and then prosperous Roman metropolis had a population of well over
250,000 in the 1st century BC, thereby making it one of the largest cities in the
Mediterranean universe. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">On our way to the site, without warning, the language light
bulb over my head went on. Ephesus. The Ephesians. St. Paul. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epistle_to_the_Ephesians" target="_blank">St. Paul’s letterto the Ephesians</a> – now I get it! Now I know where we are! While finally
connecting the language derivation dots of Ephesus to its inhabitants was hardly
genius, I was genuinely excited by the revelation. (A linguistic breakthrough
may not make Joe’s day the way it does mine, but when he discovers a new connection
technology-wise – and sometimes it’s very literally a connection, like each
time the Monster Cable Electric Powerstrip he’s lugged along with us works in
each new country -- he’s a very happy camper.) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Back to our day as part of a small tour group...
Our first stop was the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_of_the_Virgin_Mary" target="_blank">Virgin Mary’sHouse</a>, a Roman Catholic shrine on Mount Koressos, which overlooks what
remains of Ephesus. The house was discovered in the 1800s when archeologists
followed the directed visions of a Roman Catholic nun. Ever since, a steady
flow of pilgrims files through the small two-room stone dwelling and chapel
every day in the belief that the mother of Jesus was taken there by Saint John
(who may have written his gospels there) and lived with him until her
Assumption into heaven. It was a sweet little house and a touching story, but
my skepticism about this particular vision quest weighed heavily.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">It’s difficult to capture our wide-eyed level
of surprise at seeing the Ephesus ruins. Unlike so many other sites we’d
visited, this one was easily accessible, comprehensive and colossal. It didn’t
take much imagination to recreate the city and envision it as it had been at
the height of its past glory. We truly had no idea that Ephesus had such
historical significance, that it covered so many acres and that it would be so
grand. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our little tour group was a mixed bag of
English speakers led by a spirited Turkish guide. He pointed out and identified
all the local flora as we made our way through the site -- </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">mulberry,
apricot, pistachio and almond trees – and we got to sample some of their ripe fruit.
One of our tour compatriots was a lovely young Japanese woman named Hata, who
stuck close to the guide and repeated the final few syllables of everything he
said in a high-pitched voice with an excited, upward lilt: apricots, theater,
BC, Romans, aqueduct! Perhaps this was to clarify his utterances in her mind
and I don’t think she even realized she was doing it, but it helped us remember
the details of his explanations and gave our group a few giggles as well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">The day’s temperatures intensified, progressing to that
uniquely white, dry heat of the Mediterranean midday that washes out color to
dull shades of green, gray and brown. We continued on, stopping under the shade
of olive trees whenever they were available, to see</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> the
remains of various temples, public baths, the 24,000-seat amphitheater, fountains,
brothels, public toilets (a fascinating side-by-side with no privacy marble bleacher
system with modern, running water drainage canals underneath – just pay your
fee, lift your toga and go in comfort)</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">and the magnificent <a href="http://www.ephesus.us/ephesus/celsuslibrary.htm" target="_blank">Celsus library</a>. Built by the son to
honor his father, Roman Senator Tiberius Julius Celsus, </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">among the earliest
men of purely Greek origin to hold an
important position in the Roman Empire, </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">the massive public library was the
centerpiece of Ephesus</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">. It stored 12,000 scrolls and served as a monumental tomb for
Celsus whose final resting place is a sarcophagus beneath the main entrance. The building’s interior and all it held were
destroyed by fire in a devastating earthquake that struck Ephesus in 262 AD and
only the stunning, reconstructed facade now remains. We were fascinated to find
out that Ephesus, currently several miles from the coast, had originally been a
seaside harbor. Hundreds of years of silting by the Cayster River had filled
the waterfront and slowly pushed the shoreline away from the city and out into
the sea.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">On the other side of what is now the modern town
was the only sight we had anticipated: one of the famous Seven Wonders – the
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_of_Artemis" target="_blank">Temple to the Goddess Artemis</a>. In its day, the temple was considered the most
beautiful structure in the world, sheathed in glowing white marble with 127 graceful
pillars that nobly rose 60 feet high and thrust its massive red-tiled roof towards
the sky. But all that is left of the ancient beauty are a few clumps of stone
and scattered piles of </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">rubble and debris on a swampy plot of land. Our guide
declared it not </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">the </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">7<sup>th</sup> Wonder of the Ancient World, but rather the 7<sup>th</sup>
Disappointment – and unfortunately, he was right.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Although happy to make the Hotel Tatlises
and the bad ‘80s chart toppers distant memories, leaving Turkey was more difficult
than we’d anticipated. Getting to know the country and its delightful, funny people
was truly a revelation; Turkey had indeed grown on us. We’d </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">never been able to squeeze seeing a whirling
dervish ritual into our schedule, so once again, we pulled out our file of
places-to-go-back-to and added Turkey to the growing list. </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures
of our adventures:</span><span style="color: #1f1f1f; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Atatürk Mh., Temple of Artemis, 35920 Selçuk/Izmir Province, Turkey37.949656 27.36463937.9465255 27.359703500000002 37.952786499999995 27.3695745tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-47929957449800030012012-07-09T09:41:00.002-07:002012-07-13T09:14:22.247-07:00The Wild West, Turkey Style<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;"><span style="font-family: Courier;">Twenty years ago a travel book club friend mentioned
her recent trip to <a href="http://www.cappadociaturkey.net/" target="_blank">Cappadocia </a>and described the marvels of its fairy chimneys.
Once she clarified for me what a fairy chimney was, I mentally added it to my
list of must-see places. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Courier;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our early morning flight from Istanbul on Turkish
Airlines (which miraculously managed to feed us breakfast and serve us coffee
on a quick 50-minute flight) arrived in central Anatolia at the thoroughly
modern airport at Neveshir set on a vast, arid plain ringed by distant
mountains. We had landed in the middle of nowhere. The airport transfer van
took us across the lowland to the east with nothing to see for miles until the green
of the vineyards started to appear. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">“Look, grapes!” I exclaimed, “There must be wine.”
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Joe, ever the optimist, replied without a beat, “Or
jelly.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">We soon reached two-lane country roads where we
slowed behind horse-drawn </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Cappadocian </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">produce carts and passed farmers tilling spacious farms with mule-drawn
wooden rudders. Like the rustic scene of a Millet painting, sturdy, sun-burned
farming women in heavy babushkas covering their heads and outfitted with long,
stifling woolen skirts wielded hoes in the scorched fields. It was difficult to
believe that the rural scenes we were witnessing were actually taking place in the
twenty-first century.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Continuing our drive through the sprawling,
nondescript terrain, we at long last reached the flat-topped mesas and </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">sinuous valleys we’d
first seen </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">on
the horizon. In an approach reminiscent of the somewhat unremarkable move
towards the south rim of the Grand Canyon, with the scraggly olive trees of
Turkey standing in for Arizona’s scrub pines, the earth suddenly opened up and
the extraordinary landscape miraculously appeared. We’d reached the heart of
Cappadocia and there they were in front of us: forests of dreamy, delicate fairy
chimneys sprouting across acres of moonscaped terrain tucked </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">into curvy, sandstone cliff
faces</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">. The
</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">tall,
thin, stone columns, some like elongated teepees and others textbook phallic
formations, </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">are
the vestiges of volcanic eruptions whose lava flows the elements sculpted into eerie,
pointed creations. Four thousand years ago, ancient Hittites chiseled homes i</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">nto the gigantic anthills
that look as though they might crumble to the touch but are actually hardened,
solid cones of stone. The original inhabitants </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">paved the way for future residents: Byzantine
Christians seeking refuge from persecution first by pagan Romans and then
marauding Muslims, cave-dwelling hippies in the 1960s and today’s chic boutique
hotels. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Gazing
at the fascinating structures in their surreal setting, I kept waiting for oversized
desert insects to crawl from the pointed tops. Surely the creator of the
Flintstones took a trip to Cappadocia for visual and atmospheric inspiration because
there we were, smack in the middle of the Turkish Town of Bedrock. I continually
fought the urge to break into song: “...it’s a page right out of his-to-ry.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our accommodations in the busting frontier town of </span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_267256994">Göreme</a></span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><a href="http://www.goreme.org/" target="_blank"> </a>were in one of the
aforementioned cave dwellings turned boutique inns, the beautiful and
accommodating <a href="http://www.kelebekhotel.com/" target="_blank">Kelebek Hotel</a>, set high along a ridge and dug dramatically into
the volcanic rock. It was a lovely all-stone property with rock-hewn archways
and cozy panoramic porches covered with soft Turkish carpets and strewn with
overstuffed pillows for making ourselves comfortable as we surveyed the valleys.
We spent two relaxing evenings on the unique loggias enjoying </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">the troglodyte lifestyle</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> sipping crisp Cappadocian
white wine while gazing over the otherworldly rock formations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">We hiked the scenic Red Canyon just outside </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Göreme</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">
and the following day, through the distant <a href="http://www.cappadociaturkey.net/ihlara.htm" target="_blank">Ilhara Valley</a>. Ancient dwellings
called </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">pigeon
houses </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">–
traditionally used to collect bird droppings to be used as fertilizer --</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> and carved directly
into the walls of the canyon riddled the sheer rock faces. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">The remnants of
medieval monastic settlements and tiny, frescoed, vault-ceilinged chapels cut
into the base of towering cliffs lined the tranquil, green valley from the 11<sup>th</sup>
century days when Christians hid and practiced their faith in the
difficult-to-discover gorges. Simple but effective giant stone wheels that could
easily be rolled into place as a last line of defense to shun attackers peeked
out beside the entryways. At the end of our valley hike, we enjoyed a simple
outdoor lunch at a brookside restaurant that included a delicious bowl of white lentil soup (our third version of this
scrumptious potage), eggplant and tomato stew and plain yogurt drizzled with
honey for dessert. Turkish yogurt is a bit sour -- mouth-puckeringly sour, in
fact – and while refreshing, is not quite up to par with the thick,
creamy version we enjoyed daily in Greece.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Beneath Cappadocia’s Star
Wars-like landscape </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">is an intricate network of subterranean cities. The local Christians used them to hide from the ever-present hostile
forces; they went underground, in quite a literal sense. Each of the
subterranean systems housed up to 10,000 people at a time and the largest yet
discovered are ten levels deep, with tight passageways connecting the floors
like so many hamster burrows. We stooped down and squeezed through the narrow
tunnels, fighting waves of claustrophobia with every step and saw smoke-blackened
kitchens, handy indentations for storing spices, undulating ventilation shafts
masquerading as wells and chambers near the top for housing farm animals. They
were extraordinary labyrinths dug to respond to frightening times and we
gratefully breathed the fresh air and deep sighs of relief when we finally
resurfaced.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Cappadocia was the Wild West, Turkey style. Its landscape and spirit
were so evocative of the American Southwest – places like Mexican Hat in Utah
with its funny rock formations and the deeply spiritual Canyon de Chelly in the
Navajo Nation in Arizona. There were towering buttes and squat mesas, horses,
dust and the unmistakable feeling of a border town. I had a powerful urge to
saddle up and head for the hills and had we more than just two nights in captivating
Cappadocia, we just might have done so.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures
of our adventures:<b style="color: #1f1f1f;"> </b></span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
</span></div>Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Göreme-Uçhisar Yolu, 50240 Göreme/Nevşehir Province, Turkey38.6436868 34.830680937.850006799999996 33.5672534 39.4373668 36.094108399999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3972597789318122597.post-62878552875881346432012-07-04T13:31:00.002-07:002012-07-13T09:16:19.853-07:00Istanbul: The Sights<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Any reservations we had about Istanbul evaporated
after several revealing days of taking in the city’s sights. They were
beautiful and exotic and we enjoyed each one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">First up on our agenda was a casual luncheon cruise
on the Bosporus for a magnificent view of the city from sea level and an
afternoon heading up to and back from the Black Sea. The day was sweltering </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">as we were
transported to our little excursion boat in a so-called “air-conditioned” van
that would have been cooler had we rolled down all the windows. As we’d already
learned back at the Princess Diana, Turkish AC has no resemblance to the icicle-producing
jets of cold air we’re used to. It merely circulates the hot air with the goal
of making you think you’re cooler as the sweat continues to trickle. Simply
put, Turkish air conditioning is what is commonly known as a fan. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our boat ride underway, the Bosporus breeze
lowered the temperatures and we enjoyed a tasty paper-plated lunch of kebabs
and rice and were kept company by dozens<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">
</b>of graceful dolphins that played in our wake. The broad, </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">critical waterway slices
transcontinental Istanbul, which straddles both Europe and Asia, in two. One-third
of the population lives on the larger, eastern, Asian side but the western piece
is home to the bulk of the population and is the city’s cultural heart. After
an hour and a half of cruising north past sumptuous palaces followed by wooden
mansions and the </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">Selimiye Barracks</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"> (where Florence Nightingale worked during the
Crimean War)</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">,
we disembarked in the harbor of a nondescript little fishing village, climbed up
the steep hill behind it and gazed out over the vast, storied Black Sea. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">And all at once it hit
me: we had landed on the eastern shore of the Bosporus and were now in Asia!
Our gap year has taken us not only to Europe but to Africa and Asia as well.</span><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">The following day, not having done adequate
Istanbul homework to venture forth effectively on our own, we joined a small
tour group to take in the city’s highlights. We found ourselves under the
guidance of Tahir, a delightful young man from the area, and part of a remarkable
cultural stew: a French-speaking woman from Quebec who ran a relief organization
in Nairobi, Kenya and lived there with her 16-year-old daughter; her husband,
originally from Saskatchewan, who headed up a refugee agency in Khartoum, Sudan;
a woman from Bangalore, India in town for a regional meeting of the World
Economic Forum; and, a young Filipino couple who worked in Dubai. We were an impromptu
set of international visitors ready for a few days in Istanbul.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Sightseers know the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, built in
the early 1600s, as the Blue Mosque, so named for its exquisite interior blue
tiles. With its six minarets and perfect cascade of domes, it is a magnificent
piece of architecture. We passed by the ablution fountains outside the courtyard,
I draped the requisite scarf over my head and we then slipped off our shoes before
stepping barefoot onto the plush Turkish carpet along with the scores of other
visitors. Despite the crowds, the cavernous chamber was hushed and the delicate
morning light that streamed through the pastel stained glass windows added to
the tranquility of the space. Every available surface was embellished with
hand-painted blue, green and red tiles in graceful, flowery patterns. No human
or animal images were in evidence since Islam forbids prayer in front of such
since to do so would be a bit too close to idol worship. I’ve found the mosques
we’ve visited generally more peaceful and conducive to contemplation than the many
churches we’ve seen. They are lofty, light-filled places of prayer with no distracting
statues of Saint Sebastian punctured by arrows, frescoes of bleeding, beheaded
martyrs or dark paintings of souls condemned to the fires of eternal damnation.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our next stop was the neighboring Topkapi Palace, sprawling
residence of Ottoman sultans, their </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">mothers, sisters, wives and
concubines</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">
in the harem and the bejeweled, golden-hilted dagger made famous by the 1964 caper
film (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Topkapi</i>) starring Peter Ustinov
and Melina Mercouri. Much of the palace’s enclosed space is dedicated to the
presentation of priceless treasures and Islamic artifacts sitting on sumptuous
velvet cushions behind thick vitrines. Just as in Croatia, where myriad macabre
Catholic relics were displayed -- shards of saints’ bones and clips of their nails
housed in hollow gold coffers in the shape of arms and feet -- so the sacred
relics of Islam’s holy messengers were presented. Treasures such as a hair of
Mohammed’s beard, a tooth, his sword and his cloak were similarly preserved in gilded
and argentine receptacles. And I wondered in Istanbul as I had in Croatia about
the authenticity of all these religious artifacts: who vouches for the
provenance of such things? The sultan robes on display were close replicas of the
priests’ vestments we’d also seen in Croatia: royal regalia of gilded thread
and the finest embroidery. Was it any wonder that citizens and kings (like
those of France in centuries past) became so wary of the “bedecked like
royalty” clergy? In Croatia, each room of the convent treasury was vigilantly guarded
by a genial, habited nun who we were told would have no problem physically
pouncing on us should we attempt to take pictures or touch anything
inappropriately. In the Topkapi Palace, armed guards from the Turkish military
replaced the smiling sisters but I’m not sure with whom I’d rather tangle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">What is it that compels people to buy funny hats and
ridiculous shirts on vacation and to actually wear them as if they were attractive?
Perhaps its make them feel like locals but in reality they stick out like sore
thumbs. Over the course of our travels we’ve
seen so many tourists, especially bands of merry men off cruise ships, in silly
looking sailor caps and black-and-white striped sailor shirts or cheap straw
panamas with coordinating ribbons. They wear their new attire enthusiastically for
the length of the holiday, but I’m certain that once home, it is relegated to
the already existing piles of discarded accouterments from previous excursions.
I imagined their lucky children and grandchildren as they picked through the heaps
of discarded bonnets and chemises with delight as they prepared for Halloween and
other dress-up occasions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">As we wandered the Topkapi Palace, I spied a troupe
of several dozen weathered older women draped in black and wearing navy and
white baseball caps atop their headscarves. Well, that’s a unique look, I
thought, and while happy to see that the women were out and about, wondered,
given their hats, if they could possibly be off one of the massive cruise ships
docked in the Bosporus. Tahir told me when I asked that they were actually peasant
women from rural Turkey enjoying their first trip to see the top cultural and
religious sights of Istanbul, paid for by a charitable foundation. Wow, I
thought, their particular baseball caps are not silly at all and I was certain
that once back on their farms, the women would continue to wear them proudly. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Around the corner from the palace, monumental Hagia
Sofia (Holy Wisdom) rises at the end of what was the ancient Roman hippodrome.
In the reverse of what took place in Cordoba where the victorious Catholic
monarchs mutilated the mosque by dropping a basilica into the middle of the
Islamic mezquita, the triumphant Ottoman Empire defaced the cathedral by
turning it into a mosque. In both cases, the buildings should have been left
alone, but alas, such is not the behavior of conquerors. </span><span style="font-family: Courier;">In 360 Hagia Sofia was
dedicated as the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Constantinople, for a short time
in the 13<sup>th</sup> century was a Roman Catholic Cathedral, was first
transformed into a mosque in 1453 and finally was secularized as a museum in
1935</span><span style="font-family: Courier;">. The echoing
interior is a massive example of Byzantine architecture and was the largest
cathedral in the world for nearly a thousand years until Sevilla’s cathedral
was built. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Lying beneath Istanbul are hundreds of dark
cisterns that stored water for the emperors from the city’s days as
Constantinople. En route to the Grand Bazaar, we left the 90-degree
temperatures of the streets to descend to the refreshingly cool depths of the
grandest of them all: the Basilica Cistern, so called because it lay beneath a
grand Byzantine public square (the original meaning of the word). Sometimes
called the Sunken Palace because that’s exactly what it appears to be, the
cistern covers almost two and a half subterranean acres and includes a procession
of 336 marble columns. The symmetry and grandeur of the deep, cavernous structure,
illuminated by atmospheric lighting, are really quite extraordinary. We walked
along the raised wooden platforms, watched the slowly moving, ghostly carp
silently guarding the waters and felt and heard the drip-drip-drip of moisture
from the vaulted ceiling. In addition to being a welcome relief from the aboveground
heat, visiting the cistern was an eerie, entirely unexpected and fascinating stop
on our guided itinerary<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">There are more than 3,000 shops in Istanbul’s celebrated Grand Bazaar.
While merchants are indeed anxious to make a sale, shoppers are not subjected
to undue pressure à la Morocco. A retailer may ask you once if you’d like to
see some beautiful belts or shawls or carpets but then smile and let you go on
your way when you shake your head and say, “No thanks.” The covered marketplace
was considerably more modern than I expected and while many of the stalls were
tiny niches overflowing with merchandise, others were bright, roomy showrooms
with plenty of space for displaying their wares.</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 0in 13.5pt 22.5pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Courier;">Our
stay in Istanbul ended with another van-with-two-drivers transfer to the
airport. One of our chauffeurs was a young man who, when we told him we were
American, enthusiastically shared that he’d always wanted to go to the US – out
west to Texas and to Dallas, specifically. He was a big fan of the late ‘70s television
show and wanted to see the ranches and the horses and wear cowboy boots and a cowboy
hat like JR Ewing. We wished him well in his quest to reach Dallas as he dropped
us at the terminal and then headed for our hour-long flight to Cappadocia –
Turkey’s particular version of the American West.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pictures
of our adventures:</span><span style="color: #1f1f1f; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> </span><a href="http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">http://gapyeargirlgoestoeurope.shutterfly.com</span></a><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Courier;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
</div>Marianne C Bohrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05137474768334867175noreply@blogger.com0Istanbul/Istanbul Province, Turkey41.00527 28.9769640.621829500000004 28.345246 41.3887105 29.608673999999997